Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[Hammer70]

Update is good. Thanks for posting. We all need to keep this post going with updates on torque and age of shafts and bearings. Ran mine hard today at times. Got 80 miles in. Managed a few triple digits pulls. Will check my BOP part when I get home. As long as it’s still in the shaft I see no issue with this fix.

Awesome good to here once I get out on this beast I will keep u posted. I also think there will be no issues looks to be a very nice product. Thanks again Travis BOP and TY rocks.


Pan

 

[KnappAttack]

Update is good. Thanks for posting. We all need to keep this post going with updates on torque and age of shafts and bearings. Ran mine hard today at times. Got 80 miles in. Managed a few triple digits pulls. Will check my BOP part when I get home. As long as it’s still in the shaft I see no issue with this fix.

I could see if its not tight enough that the bearing will still spin on the shaft and wear the shaft. I envision many people will not have enough TQ on the bolt that the wear still happens. IMO it needs to be tighter than looser.

Also, its not expanding the whole shaft under the bearing, but just three contact points that expand and three spots of the shaft that actually decrease in size, but still a much better option than just one allen setscrew thru the shaft as I did last season to hold the bearing from spinning.

 

[jonlafon1]

Yea it’s going to take a riding season to really see what’s up on torque numbers and shaft wear.

 

[eightpilot]

Has anyone had any luck with some green loctite? Or are the tolerances too great.

 

[Turboflash]

Yes but be careful is my experience. Loctite 620 is good up to .008" gap. That's the highest 609, 638, 648, 641. If you green loctite the track shaft into the bearing(s) assuming the prep was good, you'll need a puller if you ever want to get them off again. I just worked on a 2017 TCat that was put together (both sides!) with Loctite 609. I was amazed at how welded together it was! On the brake side I had the puller that Travis published on TY a couple of weeks ago and that worked great. Heated up the shaft right where it came together with bearing and puller pulled it off. However, on brake side was another story. I heated it up and attempted to use a soft punch to drive it out of the bearing - no go. Heated it more and still it would not come off. Heated it some more until it was melting the seal behind the bearing and still it wouldn't come off. Ended up heating the chain case around the bearing to push track shaft and bearing out of case. Then had to cut the bearing off the shaft. The green loctite was like cement!
Upon reassembly, I used only blue loctite both sides (there is evidence the track shaft has also rotated inside that bearing) and BOP wedge on brake side.

 

[eightpilot]

Yikes. I’m gonna put 4 small dimples in my new shaft and use blue loctite.

 

[FrozenTows4]

Why not just lock it down, with the wedge, and make the next time in there easier?
You know you'll be down there again.

 

[eightpilot]

Because the wedge is $160 shipped

Loctite and some punch marks are free.... Gonna engrave a small mark on the shaft and bearing and see if it starts to spin in the race during the season. Can always do the wedge later if i need it...

 

[Sevey]

Has anyone had any luck with some green loctite? Or are the tolerances too great.

Yes - I had used green to install it. Its serious stuff. People say "just use heat" and it comes right off. But I would be cautious. I made a puller and judging by the force to drag the caliper assembly (with bearing) off the shaft it was really on there.
MS

 

[eightpilot]

Ok. That’s what I’ve been reading. I went with 4 small dimples and some blue loctite

 

[scooterwj]

I just installed 2 Wedgie's...

2018 SW with about 2200 miles. Bearing obviously had spun. Replaced the bearing and torqued Wedgie to 50 ft lbs with Wedgie pushed in so washer is just about flush with the shaft. Rotor has the same amount of play as prior.

2018 Viper with about 2100 miles. Doesn't appear the bearing had spun. Kept original bearing (re-greased it) and torqued Wedgie to 250 in lbs (about 21 ft lbs) with Wedgie pushed in so washer is just about flush with the shaft. Strange thing here though...Rotor has almost no play. I couldn't remember if there was play before so I removed the wedgie and sure enough... Hardly any play.

One thing I was thinking about .... Would there be any merit to using a slightly larger washer on the Wedgie so that it can't slide inside the shaft which would then make it nearly impossible to remove?

 

[FrozenTows4]

Before & after wedge install, both machines did not have much rotor free play.
The 2017, with 4000 miles, had just a little more than the 2018 with 2000 miles. 2017 has the drilled rotor. 2018 has vented rotor.
Both bearings did not show evidence of spinning.
Installed wedge, flush with shaft, at 32ftlbs each. Same rotor free play.
I agree with a larger washer. Would hate to loose it inside the shaft.

 

[KnappAttack]

Just pulled mine apart from using green 638 loctite and a set screw last season. It had just started to turn and spin on the shaft after 1700 miles of use. The green loctite was gone, the set screw was still snug but the bearing was just starting to spin, so really caught it just in time. That said I'd call the setscrew a semi-sucess, It held, but only for 1700 miles on a brand new bearing and shaft that I had installed green 638 loctite on as well. I knew something was amis as the last ride out I was just starting to get getting pulsing on the brake lever after having none all season. The new shaft had .001 slip fit with the bearing and still has .001" slip fit, but wouldn't go any longer without failing just like stock. The BOP wedge is the only way one is going to hold the bearing on the shaft properly IMO, anything less is a waste of time and failure waiting to happen.

I installed my wedge on new bearing and shaft at 35#TQ. With a used spun bearing on my new shaft it was clamped good and tight at 30#TQ using silver alum anti-sieze on the bolt and wedge. I wanted to make sure it was tight and went to 35#TQ on new bearing and shaft using the anti-sieze. It spins nice and free and has no wobble to the bearing housing. I left 1/8" of flat hang out so I could get my "thin hand grinder wrench" on the flats and hold it from spinning. The brake disc wobbles as it did prior to wedge. So all is good there.

BOP wedge is the only chance we have to hold the bearing at the moment IMO. Thanks Travis, job well done!

 

[ClutchMaster]

I have Loctite on mine but I will be getting the wedge! Thanks for the heads up KA!

 

[Sevey]

Thanks for reporting. I wondered if green would hold it on its own - now we know.

Had a friend whose bearing was pretty sloppy and he was adamant green would hold it upon re-assembly. I better call him. Lol
Ms