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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Pulled my 2017 apart. I had a new shaft/bearing/ BOP wedge BEFORE last years riding. Torqued @45 pounds. I installed the wedge so the washer was approximately 1/8 from flush. So not as far in as some have been going. Not saying the way I installed is better, just giving details. I did not use any bearing lock. Approximately 2000 + miles on this shaft(last years riding)

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This is Good news. Looks like we're good to go. Looks like you peened it for good measure.
 
Yea I put a few hits on it.. But very happy with what I saw for results on the BOP wedge..
Wonder what a few deeper dimples would do with bearing lock in the peen holes? My concern would be removing the bearing for service every year.
 
The issues concerning a wedge that does not fit some 2020 shafts is the same issue that requires the wedge in the first place....tolerance fluctuation!

Earlier runs of these that were shipped out had thinner washers and shorter bolts. I switched to thicker washers, but had large stock on the shorter bolts. Once the shorter bolts were depleted I did upgrade to longer bolt. Last 200 or so that shipped out have longer bolts.
 
5C83BD69-9F4B-4A0E-9D60-FE4CC94B38D8.jpeg
5C83BD69-9F4B-4A0E-9D60-FE4CC94B38D8.jpeg Dug into a 2017 6000 Cat the other day. And I stand corrected from a previous post I made about the higher HP sleds causing the shaft wear. This is a issue on them ALL. This sled has 1500 miles on it and my buddy bought it used. Never been serviced I’m thinking besides chain case. Which had so much blue thread locker on bolts I had to heat the bolts up to prevent snapping them upon removal. I was glad to see clear clean chaincase lube draining at least. Not so much on the shaft and cheap bearing.
 
Was at a Cat dealer a year ago and the mechanic confessed he'd seen lots of shaft problems - 9000's, 8000's. Its a terrible design. Between lots of hp on the shaft, a flimsy tunnel allowing tons of flex and likely that brake puts tons of strain on the shaft breaking it loose from the bearing - its no wonder it cant hold.
MS
 
It's a completely garbage design. This just goes to show how Yamaha doesn't give two flying phuks about us lowly peons buying their rebranded Cat chit. If they(Yamaha) did, they would have corrected this BS years ago before the Viper was ever introduced.

Just keep buying their junk, they'll keep making it the same way.
 
I put in a new driveshaft this year. I didn't hone the ID of the shaft, I instead made the wedgie a little smaller with emory cloth. Mine snugged up at about 12 ft lbs but final torque to 30
 
It's a completely garbage design. This just goes to show how Yamaha doesn't give two flying phuks about us lowly peons buying their rebranded Cat chit. If they(Yamaha) did, they would have corrected this BS years ago before the Viper was ever introduced.

Just keep buying their junk, they'll keep making it the same way.
You better go back to the Vector no problems with them, better ride
 
Just did annual maintenance on two 2017 TCats both with about 5000 miles. Both had installed BOP shaft saver last year after both had to replace track shaft due to shaft spinning in bearing. Both installs last year were with new shaft and new bearing and BOP shaft saver. In addition, both stalls were done with green sleeve retainer loctite. Both shaft savers were torqued to 45 ft.lbs. Result: both shafts looked great, no evidence of spinning, bearings and shafts like new. Re-greased bearings and re-installed same as before - green loctite and 45 ft.lbs torque.
Conclusion: this method seems to work to prevent spinning.
 
Just did annual maintenance on two 2017 TCats both with about 5000 miles. Both had installed BOP shaft saver last year after both had to replace track shaft due to shaft spinning in bearing. Both installs last year were with new shaft and new bearing and BOP shaft saver. In addition, both stalls were done with green sleeve retainer loctite. Both shaft savers were torqued to 45 ft.lbs. Result: both shafts looked great, no evidence of spinning, bearings and shafts like new. Re-greased bearings and re-installed same as before - green loctite and 45 ft.lbs torque.
Conclusion: this method seems to work to prevent spinning.
Any issues removing with the green lock? I’m assuming you had to put some heat to the inner shaft? I’m leaning towards some bearing lock but don’t want to fight with it when it comes time to service. thanks.
 
Any issues removing with the green lock? I’m assuming you had to put some heat to the inner shaft? I’m leaning towards some bearing lock but don’t want to fight with it when it comes time to service. thanks.
No problem removing bearing housing using the puller Travis at BOP drew up. I made mine with 3/8" thick steel plate. Uses the 3 tapped holes in the caliper housing and pushes on end of track shaft. Works great!
 

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