justinator
Lifetime Member
I didnt hesitate to have my shaft built up and combined with the driveshaft saver its definitely not going anywhere. My dealer has done about a dozen over the last few years this way and zero of them have had an issue since. That was all I needed to hear, one less thing to wonder about.I dont think we have a choice. Some of us including me were concerned that totally locking the bearing to driveshaft would cause a different type of failure due to chassis flex. Possibly the shaft or bearing failing instead of inner race slipping. The goal was to just make it tight enough to not spin but to be able to move in a extreme event. Probably impossible to achieve. Some have seen even green Loctite fail to hold the bearing from spinning but nobody I know of with one locked tight has had any failures elsewhere. I too am locking mine tight this year. Done messing with this.
Hammer70
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- 82SS440/96VMAX/02SRX/08APE/15SRVIPER/17SIDEWINDER
I had new shaft and new bearing snk bench tested exactly like bop did .001” difference in fit and started to lock down at 60lbs. I’m taking apart this weekend to see if spun give you updates.I did pretty much the same and still used the driveshaft saver as well. I just figured that everyone seems to be concerned with finding the right torque spec for their individual situation. If theres no risk of damage then everyone should just crank it down to the high end of the torque range and eliminate the guess work and wondering if its working or not. Of course this method may not work if your shaft already has wear but on new installed shafts or new sleds I say crank it down.
Hammer70
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We loctited one down no wedge used shaft and bearing pulled apart looks like the day I did it no issues. I’m starting to lean towards the loctite myself every one I know never we had issues.I dont think we have a choice. Some of us including me were concerned that totally locking the bearing to driveshaft would cause a different type of failure due to chassis flex. Possibly the shaft or bearing failing instead of inner race slipping. The goal was to just make it tight enough to not spin but to be able to move in a extreme event. Probably impossible to achieve. Some have seen even green Loctite fail to hold the bearing from spinning but nobody I know of with one locked tight has had any failures elsewhere. I too am locking mine tight this year. Done messing with this.
hibshman25
Vendor
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2018 snoscoot
I had new shaft and new bearing snk bench tested exactly like bop did .001” difference in fit and started to lock down at 60lbs. I’m taking apart this weekend to see if spun give you updates.
Only grabbing at 60 ft lbs on a good shaft and bearing seems odd. Sold a good used drive shaft this week and demonstrated the bearing lock to customer while he was here. 20-25 ft lbs and it started to tighten up. It's been pretty consistent for them to start snugging up the fit at that torque for me. I believe I recall conversation with you last year on this. Maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration! Ha
As for the concern of chassis flex, the chain case side sill floats so I'm not as concerned anymore either with allowing some give on caliper bearing.
Yup. I am locking my good one with your wedge to maximum torque,new high quality bearing and Green Loctiting it on. Fairly new track so as long as that lasts I am not going to worry about it and just ride till next year.Only grabbing at 60 ft lbs on a good shaft and bearing seems odd. Sold a good used drive shaft this week and demonstrated the bearing lock to customer while he was here. 20-25 ft lbs and it started to tighten up. It's been pretty consistent for them to start snugging up the fit at that torque for me. I believe I recall conversation with you last year on this. Maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration! Ha
As for the concern of chassis flex, the chain case side sill floats so I'm not as concerned anymore either with allowing some give on caliper bearing.
Hammer70
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yes we did have conversationOnly grabbing at 60 ft lbs on a good shaft and bearing seems odd. Sold a good used drive shaft this week and demonstrated the bearing lock to customer while he was here. 20-25 ft lbs and it started to tighten up. It's been pretty consistent for them to start snugging up the fit at that torque for me. I believe I recall conversation with you last year on this. Maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration! Ha
As for the concern of chassis flex, the chain case side sill floats so I'm not as concerned anymore either with allowing some give on caliper bearing.
2 snap on torque wrench’s and only use as a Pressision tool. I had a used shaft and and new bearing as well and same out come I have 4 sleds I did that are coming apart this weekend and will see results.
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- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
Who needs a torque wrench, I crank on it until my elbow clicks.. good enough..LOL
FrozenTows4
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yes we did have conversation
2 snap on torque wrench’s and only use as a Pressision tool. I had a used shaft and and new bearing as well and same out come I have 4 sleds I did that are coming apart this weekend and will see results.
Did you grease the ramps & threads?
My new shaft & new bearing started snugging up at less than 20ftlbs with both ramps & threads greased.
Something is suspicious with getting the same results from a new & used shaft.
Hammer70
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Yes went threw all of this alreadyDid you grease the ramps & threads?
My new shaft & new bearing started snugging up at less than 20ftlbs with both ramps & threads greased.
Something is suspicious with getting the same results from a new & used shaft.
When I remove for inspection I’m gonna mic results just torquing shaft no bearing and mic it as it expands this will give me a better ideas what’s going on.
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
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Just my observations on the axle shaft...I've been prick punching the shaft every season, and so far no signs of damage. The old prick punch marks are flattened so I think there was a little movement as well as when installing the bearing. as I need to tap it on, but no real wear. I did many more punch marks (spring loaded punch so not deep) this time. Still makes me wonder why with track tension, the balls wouldn't be so much easier to spin, than trying to spin the inner race on the axle fit. I can see if the bearing siezes, but...who knows. Everything looked like new, the Chinese bearing nice and tight, turned like new, rotor slides right on and off nice, so no complaints here.
DennyTuna
RIP-Logan-Dylan-Never forgotten!
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Just got 2 new shafts, one for a Viper and the other for a winder. Both shafts were very good on the O.D. 1.771 but both have larger I.D. 1.245 than in the past. We have honed out the I.D. a little over a thousands so the Drive shaft saver will fit. The new SKF bearings starts to tighten up @ 20 lbs. on the bench. Installed @ 45 lbs. and used bearing loctite as well.
SideHogger
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When you start putting more torque on it get a better and bigger washer for shaft. I upgraded to grade 8 washer and went a little bigger for shaft size.
FrozenTows4
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The 2020 shafts are definitely built to tighter specs.
Drive shaft saver will not fit without enlarging the I.D. slightly. Brake hone works well.
I opted for a longer bolt and washer. Standard bolt is a little short.
Wedge ready to install
Bearing started to get snug at less than 20ftlbs.
Installed shaft into machine.
Final torque at 40ftlbs. Should be good for the next 7400 miles.
Drive shaft saver will not fit without enlarging the I.D. slightly. Brake hone works well.
I opted for a longer bolt and washer. Standard bolt is a little short.
Wedge ready to install
Bearing started to get snug at less than 20ftlbs.
Installed shaft into machine.
Final torque at 40ftlbs. Should be good for the next 7400 miles.
Last edited:
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
gsxr
TY 4 Stroke Master
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We have done , 3 , 2020's no need to hone shaft ,lite grease on wedge , locked these 3 and , 4 more to 55 ft lbs , everyone happy !
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