Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

Do the the updated shafts in the 2021 sleds have an updated part number?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Also do yourself a favor. Get rid of the piece of #*$&@ Yamaha bearing made in China. I had brand new Yamaha bearing, and an SKF bearing. The difference it took to spin the china bearing vs the SKF was unbelievable. Now it's real cold out, that China bearing ain't budging til it warms up.

Yea like Tflash said it’s garbage grease, I use full synthetic mobile SHC PM460 grease with a super high tolerance for moisture intrusion. NLGI 1.5 it’s white and has a very good viscosity index which means temperature changes have little effect on its consistency.

 

[slimjim2525]

That has much more to do with the grease in the bearing rather than the metal components (52100 chrome steel balls, 52100 chrome steel inner race, 52100 chrome steel outer race, and stainless steel retainer). Likely if you washed all the grease out of both, they would turn with the same force. Type and quantity of grease are a big factor. I suspect the Chinese "cheat" when it comes to the material they make the components out of. And, I would bet they aren't able to hold the same tolerances consistently as high-quality manufacturers can. Net result is shorter bearing life along with bad fits to the parts they interface with. No doubt, high quality bearings will perform better and last longer.

Sorry, not true. I cleaned out both bearings of all grease. The china bearing spun easily with no grease. But when I added the same grease to both, the China bearing just about locked up again. They're garbage, and gonna replace all the bearing with SKF when I can. Added Lucas oil Red and Tacky to both.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Sorry, not true. I cleaned out both bearings of all grease. The china bearing spun easily with no grease. But when I added the same grease to both, the China bearing just about locked up again. They're garbage, and gonna replace all the bearing with SKF when I can. Added Lucas oil Red and Tacky to both.

It’s possible the “China Junk” had a tighter tolerance, or you could have packed one bearing more so than the other who knows. I will say I have been told by bearing experts that pumping to much grease into a bearing can cause it to fail..... yea I couldn’t believe it but I guess it’s true.... maybe? Anyway they say the balls/rollers don’t spin as easily which can lead to failure???? Whatever the case, using a good synthetic grease with a high VI index is the best thing you can do too make a bearing spin freely when cold. Grease that has extra corrosion additives isn’t a bad idea either.
The SKF I’m sure uses a better quality grease than China, $hit they are probably using Wale blubber.

 

[FrozenTows4]

I don't understand the hating of the stock Peer 6009RSFP bearing.
Peer is owned by SKF



Grease is Aeroshell 7
Temperature range -73c to +149c

Seems like a pretty good choice to me.

 

[DennyTuna]

If it reads "made in china" that's all I need to throw it out!

 

[FrozenTows4]

New Drive Shafts are built a little heavier.
Barn of Parts Drive Shaft Saver did not fit without using a brake hone on the I.D. of shaft.
I added a washer & longer grade 8 bolt for total thread engagement.



Bearing got tight before 20ftlbs. Nice! Installed shaft and locked down to 30ftlbs. I don't see how it could spin again.

Old shaft had 7400 miles.



Original bearing was smooth, viscous, and seals tight. However 7400 miles is time to replace anyway for peace of mind.
One more shaft to go and we're ready for the season.

 

[ClutchMaster]

New Drive Shafts are built a little heavier.
Barn of Parts Drive Shaft Saver did not fit without using a brake hone on the I.D. of shaft.
I added a washer & longer grade 8 bolt for total thread engagement.



Bearing got tight before 20ftlbs. Nice! Installed shaft and locked down to 30ftlbs. I don't see how it could spin again.

Old shaft had 7400 miles.



Original bearing was smooth, viscous, and seals tight. However 7400 miles is time to replace anyway for piece of mind.
One more shaft to go and we're ready for the season.

Do yourself a favor and torque it to 45 ft/lbs minimum.

 

[ClutchMaster]

I don't understand the hating of the stock Peer 6009RSFP bearing.
Peer is owned by SKF



Grease is Aeroshell 7
Temperature range -73c to +149c

Seems like a pretty good choice to me.

It’s a piece of garbage, there’s a reason the German made equivalent is three times the price. I had my driveshaft out at 3k miles and there was literally NO GREASE in the bearing.

Nice work BTW

 

[justinator]

Do yourself a favor and torque it to 45 ft/lbs minimum.

Is it safe to say that even if the bearing required light pressing or “motivation”to install on the shaft that there is no way the driveshaft saver would be strong enough to expand the shaft enough to damage the bearing or cause premature failure?? I would think think it would be near impossible.

 

[MrSled]

Is it safe to say that even if the bearing required light pressing or “motivation”to install on the shaft that there is no way the driveshaft saver would be strong enough to expand the shaft enough to damage the bearing or cause premature failure?? I would think think it would be near impossible.

I would agree it wont damage the bearing.

 

[Sly99]

Had 35 or 40 lbs last year 3000km with little spinning on the shaft. 55lbs this year.

 

[DennyTuna]

Is it safe to say that even if the bearing required light pressing or “motivation”to install on the shaft that there is no way the driveshaft saver would be strong enough to expand the shaft enough to damage the bearing or cause premature failure?? I would think think it would be near impossible.

I had the shaft from my winder chrome plated and had it turned down to 1.7715. For install the shaft went in the freezer for 24 hours and inner race of the new SKF bearing was heated to 200 + * and still had trouble getting it together fast enough but got it done. I know it wont spin but still installed the drive shaft saver and torqued it to 45 lbs. Taking no, none, notta, zero chances any more with these shafts.

 

[justinator]

I had the shaft from my winder chrome plated and had it turned down to 1.7715. For install the shaft went in the freezer for 24 hours and inner race of the new SKF bearing was heated to 200 + * and still had trouble getting it together fast enough but got it done. I know it wont spin but still installed the drive shaft saver and torqued it to 45 lbs. Taking no, none, notta, zero chances any more with these shafts.

I did pretty much the same and still used the driveshaft saver as well. I just figured that everyone seems to be concerned with finding the right torque spec for their individual situation. If theres no risk of damage then everyone should just crank it down to the high end of the torque range and eliminate the guess work and wondering if its working or not. Of course this method may not work if your shaft already has wear but on new installed shafts or new sleds I say crank it down.

 

[cannondale27]

I did pretty much the same and still used the driveshaft saver as well. I just figured that everyone seems to be concerned with finding the right torque spec for their individual situation. If theres no risk of damage then everyone should just crank it down to the high end of the torque range and eliminate the guess work and wondering if its working or not. Of course this method may not work if your shaft already has wear but on new installed shafts or new sleds I say crank it down.

I dont think we have a choice. Some of us including me were concerned that totally locking the bearing to driveshaft would cause a different type of failure due to chassis flex. Possibly the shaft or bearing failing instead of inner race slipping. The goal was to just make it tight enough to not spin but to be able to move in a extreme event. Probably impossible to achieve. Some have seen even green Loctite fail to hold the bearing from spinning but nobody I know of with one locked tight has had any failures elsewhere. I too am locking mine tight this year. Done messing with this.