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Getting rid of the roll over valve

I know they are normally dirty. But he is telling me the the snow is all black. Its much more dirty than it has been all season. That is why he is concerned. He checked for oil leaks and there were none.

He is going to open up the air box tonight and check for oil.

Would a 1/2" slit above the ROV in the factory hose suffice?
It would have to be before it, but I'd do what many have done...a new hose bypassing it altogether, or what I did if you leave the valve in place. Esy enough to pull the hose off before the valve and run the sled...if it soots the snow fast, you'll know quick. Although soot is usually from fuel, not oil vapors. Have to be pretty rich running with lousy mileage to soot snow that fast, imo.
 


So that's straight through bypass. You still get oil crap in your intake I guess !
 
So that's straight through bypass. You still get oil crap in your intake I guess !
True, you will get the gooey slime in the intake, but like I said I don't really care. I pop the filter and wipe up anything...never much at all. Sled runs great, so only concern would be the rov failing and blowing the tank seal...just a precaution.
 
True, you will get the gooey slime in the intake, but like I said I don't really care. I pop the filter and wipe up anything...never much at all. Sled runs great, so only concern would be the rov failing and blowing the tank seal...just a precaution.

Totally agree ! Mine runs great as well!
But does that hose need to go into the intake? Could you cap the outlet on the rov and plug the hose that goes into the intake?
 
Totally agree ! Mine runs great as well!
But does that hose need to go into the intake? Could you cap the outlet on the rov and plug the hose that goes into the intake?

No! That's the equivalent of freezing up...

You could remove the house from the rov and cap to intake and replace with another hose vented to atmosphere somewhat like Knapp's.. But still risk the rov freezing ..
 
Totally agree ! Mine runs great as well!
But does that hose need to go into the intake? Could you cap the outlet on the rov and plug the hose that goes into the intake?
3 basic choices...totally bypass or remove the rov, and run a vent hose, and seal or cap the intake port, or hose; leave the valve in a functional position, but run another vent hose, and/or slit the line before the valve; or leave it alone and wait for something better to come along.
The tank builds pressure that must be vented. I'm more concerned abut the valve failing, as it seems to take different pressure blowing into it, to make it open. I cut the slit in my fuel line hose to roughly replicate the pressure the valve takes to open, and can adjust it with a hose clamp. At idle, I have some fumes coming out the hose slit, and more when I pinch off the rov hose, so at least I know the pressure will get relieved one way or another. I just didn't like an open hose to the oil tank....but that's just me...lol
 
I saw that something similar was mentioned earlier in the thread without any response. If the hose and ROV freezes why not use a silicone heater strip and wrap around the hose and the ROV and then maybe add some pipe insulation on the outside of that. I only did a quick search and found a Silicon Heating Strip 12X500mm 50W12V for US $22.99 on ebay. Might be enough to control the ice.

s-l1600.jpg
 
I saw that something similar was mentioned earlier in the thread without any response. If the hose and ROV freezes why not use a silicone heater strip and wrap around the hose and the ROV and then maybe add some pipe insulation on the outside of that. I only did a quick search and found a Silicon Heating Strip 12X500mm 50W12V for US $22.99 on ebay. Might be enough to control the ice.

s-l1600.jpg

That would possible take care of freezing, but when I added the slit hose with a clamp, to roughly imitate the pressure to open the rov, I found the rov sometimes took a lot more air to open, so I do not trust the valve mechanically either.
 
It's important to keep in mind, that the silicone seal is simply the first point of leakage due to excessive oil tank pressure build up. If you seal the tank tighter and the check valve is frozen closed, the pressure in the tank will continue to rise until it reaches the next weakest point which most likely would be a blown hose. If you put higher pressure hoses on it and seal the tank tighter, eventually excessive pressure in the oil tank could reach a point where the oil scavenge pump stops functioning correctly.

Using a better gasket is not a bad idea and some sleds can leak even without a frozen valve. However in cases where the check valve is freezing closed and causing the oil tank to over-pressurize, you are essentially treating the symptom instead of the root cause.
 
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3 basic choices...totally bypass or remove the rov, and run a vent hose, and seal or cap the intake port, or hose; leave the valve in a functional position, but run another vent hose, and/or slit the line before the valve; or leave it alone and wait for something better to come along.
The tank builds pressure that must be vented. I'm more concerned abut the valve failing, as it seems to take different pressure blowing into it, to make it open. I cut the slit in my fuel line hose to roughly replicate the pressure the valve takes to open, and can adjust it with a hose clamp. At idle, I have some fumes coming out the hose slit, and more when I pinch off the rov hose, so at least I know the pressure will get relieved one way or another. I just didn't like an open hose to the oil tank....but that's just me...lol
I just put small filter on end of hose bought from Advance auto, worked good on my 1100. It plugs into hose wish I had picture
 


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