Getting rid of the roll over valve

[KnappAttack]

First off the seal from the factory is poor at bast. This is a known fact. They don't use much sealant there.

Second, if the ROV freezes, it will cause that poor seal to blow. Hence the reason to just get rid of it in the first place.

Some of us prefer not to coat the whole intake with oil so we just vent the pressure off down to under the running board. Others just let it vent into the intake and coat it up with oil, just as if the ROV was left in place, but at least the chance of it freezing is gone by getting rid of it.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Seems odd that the ROV would freeze in 27 miles. I wonder if the sled had a poor tank seal job at the factory?

I agree. Will let you know when I get the tank apart

 

[XP123]

Even getting rid of the roll over valve won't keep the oil tank seal from blowing. I got rid of my ROV last year just like everybody else and my oil tank seal still ended up blowing. I did everything perfect with my ROV delete and while riding up in Quebec on a very cold day with lots of snow dust I noticed my sled was idling really weird so I opened the side panel and gave the hose down by the running board a squeeze and some slushy goop puked out and the sled idled normal again. I even had a couple slits in the hose just as an added safety valve in case ice closed the end of the hose. Just another annoying thing to constantly check on these sleds and that's what I did for the rest of my trip. I can't believe how inept the engineers involved in the Yamaha / Cat venture are. I really feel for a guy who buys the top of the line SRX and finally gets a chance to ride it and can't get past 27 miles!

 

[SumpBuster]

Even getting rid of the roll over valve won't keep the oil tank seal from blowing. I got rid of my ROV last year just like everybody else and my oil tank seal still ended up blowing. I did everything perfect with my ROV delete and while riding up in Quebec on a very cold day with lots of snow dust I noticed my sled was idling really weird so I opened the side panel and gave the hose down by the running board a squeeze and some slushy goop puked out and the sled idled normal again. I even had a couple slits in the hose just as an added safety valve in case ice closed the end of the hose. Just another annoying thing to constantly check on these sleds and that's what I did for the rest of my trip. I can't believe how inept the engineers involved in the Yamaha / Cat venture are. I really feel for a guy who buys the top of the line SRX and finally gets a chance to ride it and can't get past 27 miles!

I suppose that's why I left the rov in, vented to the intake, with a hose teed in just before it, with a slit...so I have to have both plug, which could certainly happen, but my thinking was if the rov is frozen, the other hose will relieve pressure until the rov thaws. I have about half going through the rov and half the slit hose down by the boards. Slit hose also has just a bolt in the end I can easily remove and it's just an open hose, if it's that cold. I would just try extra hard not to roll it!!
lol
But this should not be happening period.

 

[cannondale27]

Or intake leak. Was playing with one and that thing takes some good pressure to overcome the spring.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Well, I’m the latest victim of the ROV. Drove 8 hours round trip to put 27 miles on my brand new SRX and have it puke engine oil over everything. I can idle my sled and watch the engine oil leak out of the oil tank. Unbelievable.

I hear ya Brent, that is why I texted you when I read this. Man this just goes to show they are slapping these together with not nearly enough silicone, or just squeezing them together too soon and silicone pushes out. Let us know how much silicone is in between when you take it apart. I believe yours has zero to do with ROV and everything to do with poor job building the sled.

That being said, the ROV delete is a great mod for many of us as we like the oil kept out of our charge tubes. Cutting the end of the hose (angled sharp rearward) is critical to not having it freeze in POW. Mine has been good in deep powder but should be checked at times. Not a big deal at all. Other turbo sleds will find their charge tubes full of oil over time, so 90ot owners will see that too, just like us 1100 guys did. So this mod is smart IMO.

For those with seeping/leaking oil tanks(sooner or later they ALL leak) I have info in my build thread, lots of pics ect....but after I did mine I did dive deeper into silicone types. While I think what I used is awesome, I now believe it to be 2nd best. And the best to be the FORD Diesel pan silicone. Read a ton of feedback on diesel forums and this stuff gets all the best posts.

Dan

Here is what I used, specialized toward oil and lightweight alum(like our lightweight oil cases)

Most important part: "Let silicone set for ONE HOUR before tightening"...I believe this is where the problem is on new sleds, they torque them down right away and squish much of it out. I just lay the cases together so they touch(wet) then let it setup an hour(thicken) then when its thickened you tighten with wrench.

This is the stuff all the diesel guys rave about, apparently once its on they cant even pull cases apart, so make sure its lined up correctly! I will use this next time if mine leaks again. Piss poor CAT design from way back in 2012, looks to be same as my 12 leaked too. Not sure why YAM would allow this design to remain.

 

[Mototown]

Ford silicone.... I wouldn't put anything ford on my sled ...lol

 

[PowderFalcon]

Thanks Dan.

I texted you a photo of my oil tank cover. It’s too big to post here and I don’t know how to resize it. Maybe you can?
You can see how thin the seal was from factory and where the oil was coming out. Very frustrating. Will be deleting the ROV tomorrow and hoping the new sealant holds up.

 

[yamaha06]

Thanks Dan.

I texted you a photo of my oil tank cover. It’s too big to post here and I don’t know how to resize it. Maybe you can?
You can see how thin the seal was from factory and where the oil was coming out. Very frustrating. Will be deleting the ROV tomorrow and hoping the new sealant holds up.

Where did you head to go riding? Sucks it ruined your trip! I used the same stuff as Dan on my oil tank.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Where did you head to go riding? Sucks it ruined your trip! I used the same stuff as Dan on my oil tank.

Haliburton Forest. 8 hours round trip! Trails were good. They have lots of snow there!

 

[yamaha06]

Haliburton Forest. 8 hours round trip! Trails were good. They have lots of snow there!

Awesome, I may have to check it out, doesn't look like we will be getting snow down this way for a little while anyway.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Awesome, I may have to check it out, doesn't look like we will be getting snow down this way for a little while anyway.

Very nice people there that run it.

Just don’t go to the Yamaha dealer down the road for anything. Wouldn’t give me the time of day when I went in to ask for help with my oil tank. Wanted to charge me a diagnostic fee to look at the sled on my trailer. I even begged him to let me put my sled in his shop so I could re seal it using my own tools. He finally said he would let me but would still charge me $100 shop rate! Also wouldn’t let me talk to his parts guy because I had taken up too much of their time. I was completely floored and will contacting Yamaha about this dealer.
It’s called Haliburton Outdoor Equipment. Worst customer service I’ve ever experienced.

 

[yamaha06]

Very nice people there that run it.

Just don’t go to the Yamaha dealer down the road for anything. Wouldn’t give me the time of day when I went in to ask for help with my oil tank. Wanted to charge me a diagnostic fee to look at the sled on my trailer. I even begged him to let me put my sled in his shop so I could re seal it using my own tools. He finally said he would let me but would still charge me $100 shop rate! Also wouldn’t let me talk to his parts guy because I had taken up too much of their time. I was completely floored and will contacting Yamaha about this dealer.
It’s called Haliburton Outdoor Equipment. Worst customer service I’ve ever experienced.

Really. that's crazy. Thanks for the heads up, definitely wouldn't want to deal with people like that. Well hopefully once you get her sealed up she's good to you the rest of the season! Where did you end up buying your sled from? I'm not to far from you, located just outside Tillsonburg.

 

[SPM]

I hear ya Brent, that is why I texted you when I read this. Man this just goes to show they are slapping these together with not nearly enough silicone, or just squeezing them together too soon and silicone pushes out. Let us know how much silicone is in between when you take it apart. I believe yours has zero to do with ROV and everything to do with poor job building the sled.

That being said, the ROV delete is a great mod for many of us as we like the oil kept out of our charge tubes. Cutting the end of the hose (angled sharp rearward) is critical to not having it freeze in POW. Mine has been good in deep powder but should be checked at times. Not a big deal at all. Other turbo sleds will find their charge tubes full of oil over time, so 90ot owners will see that too, just like us 1100 guys did. So this mod is smart IMO.

For those with seeping/leaking oil tanks(sooner or later they ALL leak) I have info in my build thread, lots of pics ect....but after I did mine I did dive deeper into silicone types. While I think what I used is awesome, I now believe it to be 2nd best. And the best to be the FORD Diesel pan silicone. Read a ton of feedback on diesel forums and this stuff gets all the best posts.

Dan

Here is what I used, specialized toward oil and lightweight alum(like our lightweight oil cases)
View attachment 143860

Most important part: "Let silicone set for ONE HOUR before tightening"...I believe this is where the problem is on new sleds, they torque them down right away and squish much of it out. I just lay the cases together so they touch(wet) then let it setup an hour(thicken) then when its thickened you tighten with wrench.
View attachment 143861

This is the stuff all the diesel guys rave about, apparently once its on they cant even pull cases apart, so make sure its lined up correctly! I will use this next time if mine leaks again. Piss poor CAT design from way back in 2012, looks to be same as my 12 leaked too. Not sure why YAM would allow this design to remain.
View attachment 143862

I used permatex RIGHT STUFF silicon in our engine shop. I wouldn't let it set up before assembly as it's thick to start with. This stuff really seals and sticks to everything. You'll need a jackhammer to get it back apart after it fully dries.

 

[PowderFalcon]

I used permatex RIGHT STUFF silicon in our engine shop. I wouldn't let it set up before assembly as it's thick to start with. This stuff really seals and sticks to everything. You'll need a jackhammer to get it back apart after it fully dries.

That’s exactly what I used! Thanks!