At that cost I might be more apt to utilize a modified apex oil reservoir and keep the sidewinder rollover valve in place. If the tank is a one piece pressure is a non issue.
I have a total of over 30000mi on my 2 sleds using the Fourstroke Solutions Rollover valve it works is proven and is simple to install. You pay for Support and quality. Well worth it. Owner is here and long time supporter of the site. He is there anytime you need. Cant ask for anymore.
Mtnviper
Vendor
Guy's, please be careful when using a different type of valve for a roll over valve. The Yamaha triple has a very high breather air flow rate that increases with RPM and engine load.
While it's true that some of the breather air flow is due to the pumping action of the pistons/blow by, the oil scavenge pump flow rate also factors into it as well.
The breather pipes and hoses are 5/8" diameter because they must be able to flow a large volume of air at a very low pressure.
If a different valve is used that has smaller fittings or internally restricts the air flow, it could cause an oil tank pressure build up at wide open throttle. This in turn could cause the silicone seal to leak or possibly alter the oil pump scavenge return rate.
Please be advised, I'm not trying to tell somebody what to do with they're sled or criticize other ideas. Only to warn that other's have tried devices such as PCV valves in the past with catastrophic results.
While it's true that some of the breather air flow is due to the pumping action of the pistons/blow by, the oil scavenge pump flow rate also factors into it as well.
The breather pipes and hoses are 5/8" diameter because they must be able to flow a large volume of air at a very low pressure.
If a different valve is used that has smaller fittings or internally restricts the air flow, it could cause an oil tank pressure build up at wide open throttle. This in turn could cause the silicone seal to leak or possibly alter the oil pump scavenge return rate.
Please be advised, I'm not trying to tell somebody what to do with they're sled or criticize other ideas. Only to warn that other's have tried devices such as PCV valves in the past with catastrophic results.
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jaydaniels
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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So going this route would the only drawback be the fact that in the event of a rollover oil will dump into the intake? Which may happen with the stock setup anyway if the sled continued to run?Dan, I can tell ya if you put your finger over the hose, it builds pressure pretty fast. By the time that valve un-sticks, I'd think the damage is done to the seal.
One can always just bypass the valve and connect the factory hoses together too, I just didn't want the blowby and oil mist going into the intake anymore at all.
Using the hose loop won't dump oil because the outlet would be above the tank if the sled rolled over.So going this route would the only drawback be the fact that in the event of a rollover oil will dump into the intake? Which may happen with the stock setup anyway if the sled continued to run?
jaydaniels
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I’m talking about bypassing the valve but still going to intake.Using the hose loop won't dump oil because the outlet would be above the tank if the sled rolled over.
This is the problem i have with the system....... If there is enough condensation in there to freeze up and clog that line then running that moisture into your intake isn't going to do you any favors.
jaydaniels
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Good point, never considered that. I know Nytros vented back to the air box or intake with no issues I know of.This is the problem i have with the system....... If there is enough condensation in there to freeze up and clog that line then running that moisture into your intake isn't going to do you any favors.
You know, this valve freezing up hasn't happened allot, but if there is a chance it can happen and there's a way to prevent it, why not do so? I'm not willing to take the risk because more often than not Murphy's Law bites me in the @SS! I'll be going with Mike's fix for the time being only because I've hit the cap for spending on this money pit this year! Like Cannondale stated earlier, there is another route that may well be a better solution, if you want to put the extra coin into it.
ROCKERDAN
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Was thinking about this overnight....
Why does this oil tank, vent back to the intake tract to begin with? That seems like a poor design. Mike mentioned emmisions ect.
But why is the oil system not closed entirely? Meaning, why not just connect the oil tank hose back to the valve cover hose? Or does there need to be a pressure release somewhere?
It sure would be easy to take that valve cover breather(from the CAI/intake filter) and connect it to the oil tank hose, so then the oil can not spill out at all when rolled.
thoughts?
Dan
Why does this oil tank, vent back to the intake tract to begin with? That seems like a poor design. Mike mentioned emmisions ect.
But why is the oil system not closed entirely? Meaning, why not just connect the oil tank hose back to the valve cover hose? Or does there need to be a pressure release somewhere?
It sure would be easy to take that valve cover breather(from the CAI/intake filter) and connect it to the oil tank hose, so then the oil can not spill out at all when rolled.
thoughts?
Dan
Gotta release pressure or that silicone will blow out Dan
Soldier'spapa
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I am going to copy Mike on this setup and re-evaluate when/if Yamaha comes up with a fix.
I will be keeping an eye on the new vent tube on the coldest of days. Water vapor may freeze on the inside of the tube and eventually block off the vent allowing pressure to build again. The breath vents on my Doo modular helmet freeze closed on occasion when its real cold. Not sure if this is a concern with Mikes design (5/8" tube) but thought I'd throw it out there...
Thanks Mike for looking into this and sharing your design!
I will be keeping an eye on the new vent tube on the coldest of days. Water vapor may freeze on the inside of the tube and eventually block off the vent allowing pressure to build again. The breath vents on my Doo modular helmet freeze closed on occasion when its real cold. Not sure if this is a concern with Mikes design (5/8" tube) but thought I'd throw it out there...
Thanks Mike for looking into this and sharing your design!
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XP123
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There is no way I'm spending that much money on something that I feel should be Yamahas problem not mine. This is bull crap and if there is a problem with this design then contact your dealer and let Yamaha come out with a fix. Why should we have to throw more money at something so stupid it's not even funny. If my sled blows all it's oil out and the engine seizes then either Yamaha is going to fix it or I'll throw a match to it and be done with it. I'm no engineer and I paid lots of money for my sled because I figure the engineers who designed it knew what they were doing. Enough with having to fix crap on brand new sleds. All this reading on these forums is driving me crazy!Sounds like the valve Joe LTX was talking about. Pretty pricey at $329. That's a tough sell.
Then I go on DooTalk and guys are furious because they are blowing up 850's with 9 miles on them and after 2 weeks no response from BRP! Why are we still having these issues on brand new sleds?
ROCKERDAN
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So if it goes back into the valve cover, wouldnt the pressure just circulate as pistons go up/down?Gotta release pressure or that silicone will blow out Dan
Your thinking it builds up without an outlet somewhere correct?
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