Getting rid of the roll over valve

This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

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This is my latest creation as one sled I did last year had a hose kink at the loop. Don't use heater hose either as it is not compatible with oil, make sure to use 5/8" fuel or oil line.

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I'm in the process of installing roll over delete after a blowout and wondered if i could just cap off hose coming out of the roll over as it looks like having to remove a bunch of stuff just to cap off the nipple at the turbo intake.
 
I'm in the process of installing roll over delete after a blowout and wondered if i could just cap off hose coming out of the roll over as it looks like having to remove a bunch of stuff just to cap off the nipple at the turbo intake.

I assume your talking about the newer machines where they run the to the air box?

It’s your machine and you can do whatever you see fit.

I personally rip the excess valve hose and any added hardware out from under the hood and cap off the hole in the air box on the newer machines to eliminate the garbage under the confines of that upper valve cover area.

If you feel better just capping it at the valve then that’s fine too. Just makes life easier changing plugs getting it out of way tossing it aside or in the garbage right off the bat IMO.
 
Thanks for the reply,it's a 17.
 
This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

View attachment 135444


View attachment 135445



This is my latest creation as one sled I did last year had a hose kink at the loop. Don't use heater hose either as it is not compatible with oil, make sure to use 5/8" fuel or oil line.

View attachment 170650
Hi there, so I'm running a 2016 Arctic Cat pantera 7000 limited, I know it's not a Sidewinder but they share the same 1049cc motor and unfortunately both have a tendency to blow large amounts of oil into the airbox. I live in the arctic so the rollover valve is most likely freezing causing this blowback. I'm just wondering if I should try a similar fix on my sled. I haven't ever rolled my machine and don't plan on it so I'm thinking this may be the way to go! There's no such thing as an Arctic Cat or Yamaha certified mechanic up here so I am forced to do all the work myself. Let me know what you think

Thanks
Kevin
 
Hi there, so I'm running a 2016 Arctic Cat pantera 7000 limited, I know it's not a Sidewinder but they share the same 1049cc motor and unfortunately both have a tendency to blow large amounts of oil into the airbox. I live in the arctic so the rollover valve is most likely freezing causing this blowback. I'm just wondering if I should try a similar fix on my sled. I haven't ever rolled my machine and don't plan on it so I'm thinking this may be the way to go! There's no such thing as an Arctic Cat or Yamaha certified mechanic up here so I am forced to do all the work myself. Let me know what you think

Thanks
Kevin

Kevin, I'd have no idea what the 7000 consists of. I was under the impression it had a whole different oil control system on it. I've never seen or had a Viper or 7000 in the shop and can't help you there. Maybe someone with experience on a 1050 will chime in.
 
Kevin, I'd have no idea what the 7000 consists of. I was under the impression it had a whole different oil control system on it. I've never seen or had a Viper or 7000 in the shop and can't help you there. Maybe someone with experience on a 1050 will chime in.
Thanks a bunch! The 7000 was co-lab with yamaha, it's got the 1049CC genesis motor in it. Great machine but it really doesn't like the arctic weather! Hopefully Someone on here has had some experience with the motor on a winder ST-X or a RS Venture TS. I'm going to clean the poor thing this evening and at least insulate the breather tubing and perhaps the whole oil tank separator. Thanks for getting back to me! Happy riding!
 
Thanks a bunch! The 7000 was co-lab with yamaha, it's got the 1049CC genesis motor in it. Great machine but it really doesn't like the arctic weather! Hopefully Someone on here has had some experience with the motor on a winder ST-X or a RS Venture TS. I'm going to clean the poor thing this evening and at least insulate the breather tubing and perhaps the whole oil tank separator. Thanks for getting back to me! Happy riding!

I know when you add a Turbo to a Viper that stock rollover is removed and it recirculated some how back. You might be able to find out more on this if your talk to Allen Ulmer, (@Srxspec )
 
The 7000 is the same as the SR Viper, right? only different plastics. In that case, it should have a breather box/oil separator over the oil tank that could give you some trouble over time, the moisture causes it the ball inside to freeze up. If memory serves, you will have two hoses to the oil tank (one of these may have been rerouted from bottom of oil tank to the mag cover) and one hose to the intake. I've been suggested to get rid of the box and just connect all hoses in a T-connector and route the "breather" in a loop and down the footwell. I did end up installing a FourStrokeSolutions roll-over valve, and routing that breather hose out from the intake.
 
The 7000 is the same as the SR Viper, right? only different plastics. In that case, it should have a breather box/oil separator over the oil tank that could give you some trouble over time, the moisture causes it the ball inside to freeze up. If memory serves, you will have two hoses to the oil tank (one of these may have been rerouted from bottom of oil tank to the mag cover) and one hose to the intake. I've been suggested to get rid of the box and just connect all hoses in a T-connector and route the "breather" in a loop and down the footwell. I did end up installing a FourStrokeSolutions roll-over valve, and routing that breather hose out from the intake.
you are correct, the 7000 is more of a touring sled, big and heavy but they share the same motor crankcase etc it does have the breather box/oil separator. I have seen some people attach a t connector and re route the breather in a loop down to the footwell. I may install a four stroke solutions roll-over valve in the summer when I have access to better delivery (we only get canada post way up here in the north) but for now I think I will try re routing the hose that goes from the separator to the air intake, I just didn't know if this was really a viable option.
 
The 7000 is the same as the SR Viper, right? only different plastics. In that case, it should have a breather box/oil separator over the oil tank that could give you some trouble over time, the moisture causes it the ball inside to freeze up. If memory serves, you will have two hoses to the oil tank (one of these may have been rerouted from bottom of oil tank to the mag cover) and one hose to the intake. I've been suggested to get rid of the box and just connect all hoses in a T-connector and route the "breather" in a loop and down the footwell. I did end up installing a FourStrokeSolutions roll-over valve, and routing that breather hose out from the intake.
That makes perfect sense!! Thank you
 
You can't bypass the rollover valve on the SR Viper/AC 7000 series sleds. You must have the black box still intact and working. The hose going to the air box can have a hose slide on it and have it pointed down towards the bottom of the belly pan, but you can't completely eliminate the black rollover box.
 
I eliminated mine my using a Sidewinder oil tank and ran breather hose like Sidewinder guys do. Only reason I did it was because I had one and mine was destroyed when silencer blew out and caught sled on fire. Using Winder tank caused issues with bodywork. It’s wider so could not use Dzus fastener on bottom since it hit tank. Also had to fabricate mount for thermostat/Cap housing. Best advice I can give is don’t overfill your oil and dress ready to ride when starting sled. When red blinking light goes out on cold start go. Slowly. Steam from idling causes that valve to stick.
 
I have simple redneck solution. The hose clamp to my rollover valve is one of those that has a plastic wingnut on it so I can loosen it with my fingers. Whenever my sled sits outside on a cold night, which is almost never , I just open that clamp up a little while the sled is warming up so pressure can’t build. Just before I get ready to ride I tighten the clamp.
 
You can't bypass the rollover valve on the SR Viper/AC 7000 series sleds. You must have the black box still intact and working. The hose going to the air box can have a hose slide on it and have it pointed down towards the bottom of the belly pan, but you can't completely eliminate the black rollover box.
You mean if there is no other ROV to replace it? Gotta have something to stop it from pouring out.

you are correct, the 7000 is more of a touring sled, big and heavy but they share the same motor crankcase etc it does have the breather box/oil separator. I have seen some people attach a t connector and re route the breather in a loop down to the footwell. I may install a four stroke solutions roll-over valve in the summer when I have access to better delivery (we only get canada post way up here in the north) but for now I think I will try re routing the hose that goes from the separator to the air intake, I just didn't know if this was really a viable option.
I've had to take out the box and put it on a heated floor overnight to stop it from sticking constantly, not a permanent fix though. The breather hose should be no problem to reroute. But do remember to check the end of it for ice buildup every time. I placed mine so that I can kick it while on the sled.
 


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