Wow! Fantastic build going on here.
If it hasn't been mentioned, possibly look at adding a swirl pot/deaeration tank to the cooling system. That item can really save day and keep the coolant doing the job.
If it hasn't been mentioned, possibly look at adding a swirl pot/deaeration tank to the cooling system. That item can really save day and keep the coolant doing the job.
74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
- Messages
- 5,265
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
The Nytro and Phazer have a cast aluminum bearing holder in the bottom of the chaincase/frame.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Will do, thanks!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Working on fitting the side plate.
Got the shock shafts back from machine shop. They drilled the holes 0.5” deeper and I tapped the threads. I also ordered Titanium bolts. I was worried about the strength of cheap Ti bolts so I ordered these from Mettec USA, they are grade 8 with forged heads. 3/8-24x2
Got the shock shafts back from machine shop. They drilled the holes 0.5” deeper and I tapped the threads. I also ordered Titanium bolts. I was worried about the strength of cheap Ti bolts so I ordered these from Mettec USA, they are grade 8 with forged heads. 3/8-24x2
Dan Lance
VIP Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2019
- Messages
- 69
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Eagle River Ak
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- nytro,apex,summit,rs vneture,phazer
You may have answered this elsewhere but why no belt drive?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Mostly cost and the weight savings is not as much for me. The belt drives from the other models would not be without issues.
A complete Pro RMK belt drive with shafts and brake is about 22 lbs and the Polaris driveshafts are garbage.
The Sidewinders have a lot of bearing/shaft issues on the clutch side and the jack shafts are heavy on these models.
My setup complete (all bearing holders, shafts, brake setup, chain case, gears & chain and hardware) is about 24 lbs, almost 4 lbs lighter than a factory Apex setup. Plus the Yamaha chain & gears are bulletproof.
The only belt drive stuff that interests me is from MVM, they have the lightest gears on the market. If I could do anything I wanted I would have MVM make pulleys to fit the Apex shafts.
A complete Pro RMK belt drive with shafts and brake is about 22 lbs and the Polaris driveshafts are garbage.
The Sidewinders have a lot of bearing/shaft issues on the clutch side and the jack shafts are heavy on these models.
My setup complete (all bearing holders, shafts, brake setup, chain case, gears & chain and hardware) is about 24 lbs, almost 4 lbs lighter than a factory Apex setup. Plus the Yamaha chain & gears are bulletproof.
The only belt drive stuff that interests me is from MVM, they have the lightest gears on the market. If I could do anything I wanted I would have MVM make pulleys to fit the Apex shafts.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Drilled holes just big enough for the shafts to fit thru while fitting the plate
Pressed my bearings into some extra flat flanges to ensure they sat flush against the plate.
Triple checking plate is square to the shafts.
I opened up the holes about 95% before tacking the plate. Once everything is welded I will finish the holes, wanted to wait in case anything moves while welding.
Test fit of brake after tack welding. Looks like it will work.
The plate ended up 1.3 lbs, I should have no problem keeping the chaincase side under 0.7 lbs. Started on it tonight and should be done in a couple days.
Pressed my bearings into some extra flat flanges to ensure they sat flush against the plate.
Triple checking plate is square to the shafts.
I opened up the holes about 95% before tacking the plate. Once everything is welded I will finish the holes, wanted to wait in case anything moves while welding.
Test fit of brake after tack welding. Looks like it will work.
The plate ended up 1.3 lbs, I should have no problem keeping the chaincase side under 0.7 lbs. Started on it tonight and should be done in a couple days.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Picking away at the chaincase side. Slow going to make sure fit up on the tabs is perfect so they don’t move and put the case out of alignment. Tabs are all .090 4130.
1st
2nd, had it straight and then rotated it and bent the corners to spread out the weld surface and wrap the tube a little.
3rd, almost bent both sides but it’s hard to get the bends that close in my little homemade brake. I think being .090 it will be strong enough. I wouldn’t think there would ever be enough outward force on the case half to bend the tabs?
4th, this one took a bit as the 3/4 tube bends in towards the steering hoop and the notches aren’t the same.
Tried to make the tabs as small and strong as possible. I’m way under weight on this side so far. I need to weld in a 3/4 tube and then I can do the 5th and final tab.
1st
2nd, had it straight and then rotated it and bent the corners to spread out the weld surface and wrap the tube a little.
3rd, almost bent both sides but it’s hard to get the bends that close in my little homemade brake. I think being .090 it will be strong enough. I wouldn’t think there would ever be enough outward force on the case half to bend the tabs?
4th, this one took a bit as the 3/4 tube bends in towards the steering hoop and the notches aren’t the same.
Tried to make the tabs as small and strong as possible. I’m way under weight on this side so far. I need to weld in a 3/4 tube and then I can do the 5th and final tab.
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kinger
VIP Member
Clever, so you’re not going to put a plate in there? Seems like it’s begging for a flat plate of carbon sheet now.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
No plate, just the tunnel skin on the inside.
3/4 tube fit. Used .049 to keep it same as the rest of the hoop.
Bent in at the top to keep the tube straight and same .090 gap to chaincase mount.
1 more tab and the drivetrain is done
3/4 tube fit. Used .049 to keep it same as the rest of the hoop.
Bent in at the top to keep the tube straight and same .090 gap to chaincase mount.
1 more tab and the drivetrain is done
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
As much as I hate redoing stuff, I was hesitant about the strength of the tabs so I cut off 3 of the old tabs and remade them. They now all have 2 bent sides and look the same aside from being different lengths. 0.37 lbs for all 5 tabs and the 3/4 tube was 0.20 lbs so still only 0.57 lbs to support the chaincase and no more concerns about strength.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Got the plate welded 100% and tabs about 90% welded. Didn’t want to remove it from the jig so did what I could.
I’ve been happy with how most of the frame is turning out except for the tunnel. I’ve stood on it a few times and I don’t like the long 3/4 tubes going up the steering hoop, they hit my inner legs leaning back and forth and will require a custom aluminum fuel tank. I decided to redo the upper pyramid so they aren’t needed anymore. Been coming up with a plan the last couple days.
Going to redo the front 1” x .035 tubes so they join together and will be shorter as well. Blue tape will be new tubing.
Then I’m going to cut out the rear 3/4 x .049 tubes just from the node to the steering post and make new ones from 1 x .035. They will be shorter and have more of a triangle to them. 1”x .035 is lighter than 3/4 x .049 per ft and has more torsional stiffness so should be quite a bit stiffer. I had my wife help take the motor in and out and the blue tape is as low as I can put the tubes while still getting the motor in and out without to much struggle.
As for the tunnel I’m not sure what I’m going to do. May weld in the 3/4 tube with tape on it, or just make the skin a little thicker and not do any additional tubing. Once the new pyramid/hoop is done and welded I’ll pull it from the jig and see how much the 1x .058 running boards flex. Also going to hold off fitting the bearing flanges and rear motor mounts until the pyramid is welded.
I’ve been happy with how most of the frame is turning out except for the tunnel. I’ve stood on it a few times and I don’t like the long 3/4 tubes going up the steering hoop, they hit my inner legs leaning back and forth and will require a custom aluminum fuel tank. I decided to redo the upper pyramid so they aren’t needed anymore. Been coming up with a plan the last couple days.
Going to redo the front 1” x .035 tubes so they join together and will be shorter as well. Blue tape will be new tubing.
Then I’m going to cut out the rear 3/4 x .049 tubes just from the node to the steering post and make new ones from 1 x .035. They will be shorter and have more of a triangle to them. 1”x .035 is lighter than 3/4 x .049 per ft and has more torsional stiffness so should be quite a bit stiffer. I had my wife help take the motor in and out and the blue tape is as low as I can put the tubes while still getting the motor in and out without to much struggle.
As for the tunnel I’m not sure what I’m going to do. May weld in the 3/4 tube with tape on it, or just make the skin a little thicker and not do any additional tubing. Once the new pyramid/hoop is done and welded I’ll pull it from the jig and see how much the 1x .058 running boards flex. Also going to hold off fitting the bearing flanges and rear motor mounts until the pyramid is welded.
kinger
VIP Member
I think with some small gussets that design will be just fine. Weld away and git er done! I want to see this under its own power by next fall!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Wont take me long to redo. Got the old tubes cut out and frame cleaned up. Tacked a piece of square tube at the top of the hoop where new 1” tubes need to come together.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Front redone and tacked.
Where the tubes come together where will be a plate/bracket I’ll weld on for the steering post bushing. The all 1” tube gusset is where the rear hoop tubes will tie in. Doing it all out of 1” x .035
Where the tubes come together where will be a plate/bracket I’ll weld on for the steering post bushing. The all 1” tube gusset is where the rear hoop tubes will tie in. Doing it all out of 1” x .035
