revster
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Running big lugs
There have been a lot of guys on here switching to 1.75" tracks which of course is my personal preference It's a nice middle of the road for off trail and on trail performance. Of the guys that are doing it a lot are doing it "half assed."
I've been running 1.75 and 2" lug tracks for about 8 or 9 seasons now both in 121" and 136" lengths and I've helped several buddies set up their sleds with big lugs up to 144" lengths including a few Nytros.
Here is what I have learned through my experiences, reading and speaking with people in the know. (Warning this contains personal opinion and should be treated as such.)
Choosing lug height: I agree with anyone that wants to swap the stock track off the Nytro I don't feel they offer enough traction for the torque of the 1050. The exception to that is those that are going the picks route. That being said there are a lot of guys going to the 1.75 Backcountry that probably don't need to. For pure trail riders the 1.5 intense is probably a better option that doesn't require additional changes to the sled or subject to some of the problems big lugs bring. At 2" things seem to change. This seems to be the lug height that crosses the line to where the noise of the track and vibration seem to become noticeable on the trail. The 1.75 works much better on trails then a 2" which really seems to start to bend over.
Gearing: Guys don't seem to want to change their gearing for fear that they are going to give up their top speed. Well guess what, as soon as you put that 1.75" lug track on you gave up some of that top speed. You've increased the rotating mass in addition to the fact those bug lugs have to make their way thru the air. You need to match your gearing to the track on your sled. The Nytro does come with a fairly low gearing from the factory as 21/39 so if you are going to a 1.5 you are likely fine. However if you are going to a 1.75 and even more so if you are extending your track you need to consider adjusting your gearing to fit. The cheapest way is to drop a couple teeth on the top sprocket. The Nytro can be run with 20/39 or 19/39 without changing the stock chain. You can also add teeth to the bottom sprocket or run smaller drivers. There are plenty of gearing charts on line to assist you in figuring out what you want to do, but really for the Nytro it's as easy as choosing between 21/39, 20/39 or 19/39.
Extro drivers: If you are an off trail rider I would budget for extros if your sled does not already have them. The 121 Nytros NEEDS them. Some guys are getting around the extros by running their tracks very tight. So you've added rotating mass and air resistance then on top of that adding the tension to the track making it harder to turn. I call that wrenching in the wrong direction. After spending tons of money on mods to make our sleds faster then make simple set up errors is, well, silly.
On the XTX the extros are not AS important as a result of a more efficient approach angle. However, I would add them. I did have a buddy who ran the 1.75 BC without them and the sled would only ratchet on the rare occasion. However this sled was bone stock in terms of power, the track was tighter than it should be and he was lazy with his clutching. (Not hitting powerband). I believe if the power was getting to the drivers they would spin on that big track.
The downside to big lugs: As I already mentioned you are going to loose top speed, however if you are installing a 1.75 lug track top speed should not be a concern for you. Another problem is Hyfax/slider wear is increased with the mass of a big track. This wear is increased even more if you have to run your track very tight because you didn't get the extros. The other thing is the big lug track just don't last as long.
I hope that helps someone looking to add big lugs. If you have any questions on what I wrote please fire away. ....and if you can add something or have a different opinion please post it.
There have been a lot of guys on here switching to 1.75" tracks which of course is my personal preference It's a nice middle of the road for off trail and on trail performance. Of the guys that are doing it a lot are doing it "half assed."
I've been running 1.75 and 2" lug tracks for about 8 or 9 seasons now both in 121" and 136" lengths and I've helped several buddies set up their sleds with big lugs up to 144" lengths including a few Nytros.
Here is what I have learned through my experiences, reading and speaking with people in the know. (Warning this contains personal opinion and should be treated as such.)
Choosing lug height: I agree with anyone that wants to swap the stock track off the Nytro I don't feel they offer enough traction for the torque of the 1050. The exception to that is those that are going the picks route. That being said there are a lot of guys going to the 1.75 Backcountry that probably don't need to. For pure trail riders the 1.5 intense is probably a better option that doesn't require additional changes to the sled or subject to some of the problems big lugs bring. At 2" things seem to change. This seems to be the lug height that crosses the line to where the noise of the track and vibration seem to become noticeable on the trail. The 1.75 works much better on trails then a 2" which really seems to start to bend over.
Gearing: Guys don't seem to want to change their gearing for fear that they are going to give up their top speed. Well guess what, as soon as you put that 1.75" lug track on you gave up some of that top speed. You've increased the rotating mass in addition to the fact those bug lugs have to make their way thru the air. You need to match your gearing to the track on your sled. The Nytro does come with a fairly low gearing from the factory as 21/39 so if you are going to a 1.5 you are likely fine. However if you are going to a 1.75 and even more so if you are extending your track you need to consider adjusting your gearing to fit. The cheapest way is to drop a couple teeth on the top sprocket. The Nytro can be run with 20/39 or 19/39 without changing the stock chain. You can also add teeth to the bottom sprocket or run smaller drivers. There are plenty of gearing charts on line to assist you in figuring out what you want to do, but really for the Nytro it's as easy as choosing between 21/39, 20/39 or 19/39.
Extro drivers: If you are an off trail rider I would budget for extros if your sled does not already have them. The 121 Nytros NEEDS them. Some guys are getting around the extros by running their tracks very tight. So you've added rotating mass and air resistance then on top of that adding the tension to the track making it harder to turn. I call that wrenching in the wrong direction. After spending tons of money on mods to make our sleds faster then make simple set up errors is, well, silly.
On the XTX the extros are not AS important as a result of a more efficient approach angle. However, I would add them. I did have a buddy who ran the 1.75 BC without them and the sled would only ratchet on the rare occasion. However this sled was bone stock in terms of power, the track was tighter than it should be and he was lazy with his clutching. (Not hitting powerband). I believe if the power was getting to the drivers they would spin on that big track.
The downside to big lugs: As I already mentioned you are going to loose top speed, however if you are installing a 1.75 lug track top speed should not be a concern for you. Another problem is Hyfax/slider wear is increased with the mass of a big track. This wear is increased even more if you have to run your track very tight because you didn't get the extros. The other thing is the big lug track just don't last as long.
I hope that helps someone looking to add big lugs. If you have any questions on what I wrote please fire away. ....and if you can add something or have a different opinion please post it.
sorenson1610
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Very good write up revster, agree 100%
dubla92
Pro
Good write up Revster. I agree 100% and would like to add a couple of thoughts
When it comes to 1.5" vs 1.75" I agree that the the 1.75 is too much for a trail rider. But from my experience with both the 1.5 Intense and crossover they do not stand up well to trail riding. The lugs are soft and not as rigid ad the 1.75 backcountry. I recommend the backcountry to all who ask me since it tends to last longer and not suffer a much lug damage in hard trail conditions. I am not knocking the 1.5" tracks but on the nytro the 1.75" stands up better because the lugs are so much stronger.
When it comes to 1.5" vs 1.75" I agree that the the 1.75 is too much for a trail rider. But from my experience with both the 1.5 Intense and crossover they do not stand up well to trail riding. The lugs are soft and not as rigid ad the 1.75 backcountry. I recommend the backcountry to all who ask me since it tends to last longer and not suffer a much lug damage in hard trail conditions. I am not knocking the 1.5" tracks but on the nytro the 1.75" stands up better because the lugs are so much stronger.
revster
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dubla92 said:Good write up Revster. I agree 100% and would like to add a couple of thoughts
When it comes to 1.5" vs 1.75" I agree that the the 1.75 is too much for a trail rider. But from my experience with both the 1.5 Intense and crossover they do not stand up well to trail riding. The lugs are soft and not as rigid ad the 1.75 backcountry. I recommend the backcountry to all who ask me since it tends to last longer and not suffer a much lug damage in hard trail conditions. I am not knocking the 1.5" tracks but on the nytro the 1.75" stands up better because the lugs are so much stronger.
Thanks for the feedback.
....and just to be clear I am not saying the 1.75" doesn't work on the trails. My point is that a trail rider could swap to a smaller lug and not have to worry about gearing and extros ect and not give up top speed. But I've enjoyed my 1.75s on the trails!
In terms of the 1.5" vs the 1.75" backcountry our experience has been the opposite. Our riding buddy with the 1.5" saw no damage to the lugs over several seasons where as the guy that put on less miles with his BC was missing 2 or maybe even 3. (can't recall) ....and in the same time period I destroyed a 1.75" hillX track.
There is some luck involved. I had a brand new snowX track on my sled one year and I ran over god knows what and lost 4 outside edge lugs in a row.
But all that being said, for MB I'm same as you I recommend the BC as well!
revster
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raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
dat looks perty! All your track points are right on as well. i was contemplating a BC track but couldnt justify it cuz im not off trail that much. Really glad i didnt cuz the 136 intense is well, INTENSE!revster said:
dubla92
Pro
revster said:dubla92 said:Good write up Revster. I agree 100% and would like to add a couple of thoughts
When it comes to 1.5" vs 1.75" I agree that the the 1.75 is too much for a trail rider. But from my experience with both the 1.5 Intense and crossover they do not stand up well to trail riding. The lugs are soft and not as rigid ad the 1.75 backcountry. I recommend the backcountry to all who ask me since it tends to last longer and not suffer a much lug damage in hard trail conditions. I am not knocking the 1.5" tracks but on the nytro the 1.75" stands up better because the lugs are so much stronger.
Thanks for the feedback.
....and just to be clear I am not saying the 1.75" doesn't work on the trails. My point is that a trail rider could swap to a smaller lug and not have to worry about gearing and extros ect and not give up top speed. But I've enjoyed my 1.75s on the trails!
In terms of the 1.5" vs the 1.75" backcountry our experience has been the opposite. Our riding buddy with the 1.5" saw no damage to the lugs over several seasons where as the guy that put on less miles with his BC was missing 2 or maybe even 3. (can't recall) ....and in the same time period I destroyed a 1.75" hillX track.
There is some luck involved. I had a brand new snowX track on my sled one year and I ran over god knows what and lost 4 outside edge lugs in a row.
But all that being said, for MB I'm same as you I recommend the BC as well!
Actually I agree that the 1.5 ripsaw stands up real well and I would put that track on for trails over both the intense and crossover. It does stand up real well. It just seems that everyone thinks the "shitsaw" sucks. The intense and crossover work better off trail vs the saw. I personally have an intense 121 on my sxr700 and like it but for me it does not seem to be as durable as the bc.
I totally agree about luck. You can be as careful as anything and still find something to tear a lug on. I should also add that I primarily ride off trail and set my sled up as such, trail manners take a back seat to off trail performance.
sorenson1610
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I opted for the 1.5 ripsaw over the intense last year and its performed better then expected. Great overall track
revster
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I managed to get the 136" tunnel extension removed and the 144 extension installed.... or at lease almost. I broke my riveter again. So I'll have to get another tomorrow. I buy a new one of those damn things every year, I really need a powered one.
This extension is from tracks USA so the rear tail piece from the 121 set-up is used vs the 136 kit that had it's own. Also does not overlap the tunnel as much as the 136 one did.
I didn't realize that pic was so blurry till I uploaded it.
This extension is from tracks USA so the rear tail piece from the 121 set-up is used vs the 136 kit that had it's own. Also does not overlap the tunnel as much as the 136 one did.
I didn't realize that pic was so blurry till I uploaded it.
moab11
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go get an air powered rivet gun from princess Auto, works like a dream and is cheap.
dubla92
Pro
X2 on the PA Power Fist Air Riveter. Best $55 I spent!
revster
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Thanks guys, I'll stop and grab one. Cdn Tire only has the arm strong ones.
revster
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I had a "trust your instincts" or "go with your gut" type moment the other day putting the track in. Normally I don't torque anything under 30ft lbs, I just go by feel. For whatever reason I decided I was going to be super anal and torque everything. While torquing the drive shaft bearing housing on the chain case side I was going around alternating between bolts to tighten them evenly however two had clicked but the top one kept going. My gut told me to stop and I did. I checked the bottom ones again....click....click ok the top one most be close......snap!!
But all's well that ends well. I took the housing off and was able to back the broken bolt out with my fingers and I had a replacement in the bolt box.
The lesson.... trust your gut!!
But all's well that ends well. I took the housing off and was able to back the broken bolt out with my fingers and I had a replacement in the bolt box.
The lesson.... trust your gut!!
revster
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So the track is in!
I went with an old beat up Camo Challenger 2" and the reason I didn't buy a new one is the unknown of this set-up. I wanted to run this set-up and make sure it works well before I spend the big money on a track. Also I can see if 2" is the way I want to go. I have run 2" challengers in the past however I would swap them on to goto the mountains I did not run them in the flatlands. I will likely get a 1.75" BC but we shall see how the 2" works in the flats and on the odd trail trip.
I went with an old beat up Camo Challenger 2" and the reason I didn't buy a new one is the unknown of this set-up. I wanted to run this set-up and make sure it works well before I spend the big money on a track. Also I can see if 2" is the way I want to go. I have run 2" challengers in the past however I would swap them on to goto the mountains I did not run them in the flatlands. I will likely get a 1.75" BC but we shall see how the 2" works in the flats and on the odd trail trip.
revster
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