revster
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....and now here is my issue.
I kept my Fly bar pad from Rev. I am quite fond of it as it has save my face a few times, or at least my helmut.
The first pic shows where I was planning on mounting the Moto-R tether and the second shows the bar pad. Pretty clear to see there isn't room for both. (and I don't even have the hand guards or mountain strap on.)
I may have to switch bar bads, or maybe change bars as well.
I kept my Fly bar pad from Rev. I am quite fond of it as it has save my face a few times, or at least my helmut.
The first pic shows where I was planning on mounting the Moto-R tether and the second shows the bar pad. Pretty clear to see there isn't room for both. (and I don't even have the hand guards or mountain strap on.)
I may have to switch bar bads, or maybe change bars as well.
Attachments
Stand by there for a minute Revster... we may have a cure for that issue... 
Pics to follow.
Pics to follow.
revster
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MotoPsycho said:Stand by there for a minute Revster... we may have a cure for that issue...
Pics to follow.
Sweet. Some ideas would be great. I was even looking at the steering post as a mounting point.
Production models will be anodized black, and shaped slightly differently...
revster
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MotoPsycho said:
Production models will be anodized black, and shaped slightly differently...
That looks like a slick idea. By the look of it, it could be mounted on the bottom as well maybe?
On your riser it looks like it could... not on the OEM MTX riser though.
Stoli
VIP Member
Sure is a nice picture Moto.... 
StoliDoli said:Sure is a nice picture Moto....
It came via a "professional" photographer...
Thx Stoli!
revster
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One of those good news bad news days. I stopped at the nearest Yamaha dealer and they actually provided me with new limiter straps and drive shaft bolt under warranty.
The bolt was actually upgraded again for 2010, it is now threaded all the way up. It was also mentioned in Snowtech magazine if anyone saw that.
The bad news was that the 6005 2RS bearings that I bough for my inner idlers are going to be of little use for me. The bearings in these wheels are fixed. This blows my mind WTF was Yamaha thinking on this one. Perfectly good wheel is garbage now because the $4 bearing is seized. I guess I'll do some searches to see what everyone does when they are shot. I'm sure replacements are $60 or more from Yamaha.
The bolt was actually upgraded again for 2010, it is now threaded all the way up. It was also mentioned in Snowtech magazine if anyone saw that.
The bad news was that the 6005 2RS bearings that I bough for my inner idlers are going to be of little use for me. The bearings in these wheels are fixed. This blows my mind WTF was Yamaha thinking on this one. Perfectly good wheel is garbage now because the $4 bearing is seized. I guess I'll do some searches to see what everyone does when they are shot. I'm sure replacements are $60 or more from Yamaha.
Hey Revster,
can help you out... again. PM me.
can help you out... again. PM me.
birkebeiner
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5.25" billet wheels from OFT Racing!! Say no more
Coolest looking wheels on this planet and changeable bearings.
Coolest looking wheels on this planet and changeable bearings.
Tarzan
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birkebeiner said:5.25" billet wheels from OFT Racing!! Say no more
Coolest looking wheels on this planet and changeable bearings.
x10Cant wait to get mine, and the aweysome 9"
Tarzan
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birkebeiner said:5.25" billet wheels from OFT Racing!! Say no more
Coolest looking wheels on this planet and changeable bearings.
x10Cant wait to get mine, and the aweysome 9"
revster
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What I'd like to do is buy some OFT billets. They are friggin' sweet! However I am at the limit for the budget. (For this year)
So I stopped at the Yamaha dealer and bought the upgraded 2010 idler wheels that have the replaceable wheels. They look good and the price wasn't that bad at all. $30ea CDN complete.
I'm going to try to find some time to get the skid all put together tonight.
So I stopped at the Yamaha dealer and bought the upgraded 2010 idler wheels that have the replaceable wheels. They look good and the price wasn't that bad at all. $30ea CDN complete.
I'm going to try to find some time to get the skid all put together tonight.
revster
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Well last night I installed the track with the extro drivers. Then put the chaincase back together. Everything went pretty good till I got to the reverse lever or whatever you call the thing on the inside of the cover of the case that shifts the reverse in and out. What a nightmare trying to line that thing up for the first time. I'm sure it's like anything else like that the more you do it, you get the feel for it, but I had that cover on and off at least 10 times.
Here is a must read thread for doing nytro track swap that Srxspec put together: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47824&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
So the sled is now geared 19/39 (2.05). I had an idea of what ratio I wanted to be at (2.00) and I ended up dropping 2 teeth on the top sprocket. This of course creates a bit of a dog leg in the chain but nothing too crazy. But it's much cheaper then getting a bigger bottom. 20/40 probably would have been the better way to do it.
....tell me that track don't look like it wants to tear the crap out of trails. (Just kidding trail riders don't send me hate mail, this sled is a ditchbanger/backcountry machine, I'll take it easy on the trails.)
Here is a must read thread for doing nytro track swap that Srxspec put together: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47824&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
So the sled is now geared 19/39 (2.05). I had an idea of what ratio I wanted to be at (2.00) and I ended up dropping 2 teeth on the top sprocket. This of course creates a bit of a dog leg in the chain but nothing too crazy. But it's much cheaper then getting a bigger bottom. 20/40 probably would have been the better way to do it.
....tell me that track don't look like it wants to tear the crap out of trails. (Just kidding trail riders don't send me hate mail, this sled is a ditchbanger/backcountry machine, I'll take it easy on the trails.)
