fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Stock belt and helix. Stock weights in the primary with orange TP primary spring with 2 glide washers.^^^^^^^
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
Ok so the sled I just bought this past weekend is stock minus the Thunder clutch kit. I'm going to take the Sidewinder out this weekend on its first trip with no tune in it yet. What would be the recommended setup for aggressive corner to corner trail riding stock? The previous owner did not give me the instructions etc with the clutch. Just want to make sure it is close before I head out
When I get back that is when I'm going to add the TD reflash, quiet exhaust, and Thunder 911 kit.
When I get back that is when I'm going to add the TD reflash, quiet exhaust, and Thunder 911 kit.
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ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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Looks like orange may be at 3/3....check that, and change it to 3/1 if its not there already.
Snowaddict
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- mstahl88
Ok so the sled I just bought this past weekend is stock minus the Thunder clutch kit. I'm going to take the Sidewinder out this weekend on its first trip with no tune in it yet. What would be the recommended setup for aggressive corner to corner trail riding stock? The previous owner did not give me the instructions etc with the clutch. Just want to make sure it is close before I head out
When I get back that is when I'm going to add the TD reflash, quiet exhaust, and Thunder 911 kit.
Are you sure that's a stock helix?
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
No it is the Thunder helixAre you sure that's a stock helix?
snowbeast
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Hi fourload,i have that primary spring from tpi,and I really liked it,except the set up with it,at the time,it was producing way to much rpms,hitting my rev limiter 9600 rpms,it has a high shift rate,for such a short heavy wire spring.Nice engagement,and ramp up,i did like the smooth up shift,so next time I run it,i will load my ramps up for it.Stock belt and helix. Stock weights in the primary with orange TP primary spring with 2 glide washers.
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
The orange primary does raise the RPM's on a stocker. I push about 88-8900 now at 500miles. When it is fully broken in it might go too high. For now it runs great. Put the secondary orange spring down to 40degrees and have cool clutches even running in 15inches of new powder. I will leave it like this now till I tune it next year.Hi fourload,i have that primary spring from tpi,and I really liked it,except the set up with it,at the time,it was producing way to much rpms,hitting my rev limiter 9600 rpms,it has a high shift rate,for such a short heavy wire spring.Nice engagement,and ramp up,i did like the smooth up shift,so next time I run it,i will load my ramps up for it.
Kevin
Lifetime Member
At 40 is it still providing more clamping force than the stock spring?
jeffgilbert
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what wrap did you have yours set to ? I am running the same helix and belt and springDid 110 mile run this weekend 5 degrees out orange secondary new gates belt on turbo viper 40/46 reverse angle helix no issues
aquaticlaker
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Here is my final findings on TP clutching with orange secondary spring. I ran the secondary at 3 0 with a new belt and worked good at first then after 300 miles or so then had a foot vibration about at 50 mph. High speed went away. Came to the conclusion that the secondary was slipping. Pulled side panel an secondary was warm primary cool. Changed to 3 3 went for ride all issues were gone.
I am sticking with 3 3 for now
Mike
I am sticking with 3 3 for now
Mike
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
Dumb question but when this thread started it seems 2-3 was a great setup for most with a stock motor. Then a few chimed in 3-3 was, but they don't ride that hard and backshift was better. Now people are saying to go 3-1. What are you seeing different from 2-3 to 3-1, and what belt are you running in a stock motor with no tune yet?
Thank you for the assistance as usual
Thank you for the assistance as usual
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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ClutchMaster
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All depends on your riding style, weight, belt type, gearing etc.Dumb question but when this thread started it seems 2-3 was a great setup for most with a stock motor. Then a few chimed in 3-3 was, but they don't ride that hard and backshift was better. Now people are saying to go 3-1. What are you seeing different from 2-3 to 3-1, and what belt are you running in a stock motor with no tune yet?
Thank you for the assistance as usual
Also small differences in clutch alignment are making one setup work in one sled but not so good in other sleds. Check all your alignment specs! Also check all your primary/secondary rollers.
These high horsepower sleds really need to be clutched individually.
Post your entire setup and include gearing changes, track length and lug height. Mountain or trail. Where your rpms are off the line and at top speed. Hot clutches or cool, include a picture of your primary sheave, belt your using, what problems your having, your expectations and anything else you can think of.
This all helps make a good decision on the direction you need to go.
Cheers, CM
Last edited:
**sj**
Lifetime Member
lets not overlook the state of tune ( power) and weights used....some being flat and others with more curve and throw heavier.. etc
XP123
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I don't see the shape of the weight to be that much of an issue. The weight and location of the weight is the real factor correct? If you have the proper weight for the rpm's you want what will the curve of the weight effect?lets not overlook the state of tune ( power) and weights used....some being flat and others with more curve and throw heavier.. etc
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