upper gear bushing

[ClutchMaster]

It was the one that Clutchmaster recommended.

All I did was wrap 80 grit emery cloth around my finger and sand it to fit, 5 minutes. Then I polished it with 400 grit. The 660 bronze is slightly harder than the coated bushing and theoretically should last a bit longer.

 

[ClutchMaster]

It’s very close, probably undersized less than .001”
If you take your time you can achieve a tighter fit than the OEM bushing

 

[number1kyster]

It’s very close, probably undersized less than .001”
If you take your time you can achieve a tighter fit than the OEM bushing

I have some Emery. I can give that a try. I wasn't sure if we were supposed to sand this material or not.

 

[SumpBuster]

I have some Emery. I can give that a try. I wasn't sure if we were supposed to sand this material or not.

We used this. It's .020" larger, so just some passes on a drill press after pressing it in until the fit was really perfect on the shaft, far better than new. (on oilite, not coated)

 

[number1kyster]

All I did was wrap 80 grit emery cloth around my finger and sand it to fit, 5 minutes. Then I polished it with 400 grit. The 660 bronze is slightly harder than the coated bushing and theoretically should last a bit longer.

Thank you. I wrapped 120g Emery around a socket that was close in size. I was able to get a very tight fit on the shaft. I polished it up with the backside of the Emery cloth and drilled out all 3 oil holes in the bushing. Then I tightened the chain to spec with the cover off and put it all back together. I added 16oz of chain lube and took a few laps around the house to make sure the reverse worked properly.

Hopefully this one lasts longer than 1,500 miles.

 

[Snorunner]

Food for thought. Teflon won't bond to metal unless it is heated to 750 degrees Fahrenheit. I deal with bushings in automotive Hoist pulleys. Obviously much slower rpm"s. They have bushings lined with a teflon impregnated cloth can't Lube them or the cloth will fall apart. My interest in this subject is because I am thinking of going with a Viper so I can install a King Air suspension in my sled for the ultimate ride. And of course the aftermarket power steering kit. So I am I am interested in the durability of these Yamacats.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Food for thought. Teflon won't bond to metal unless it is heated to 750 degrees Fahrenheit. I deal with bushings in automotive Hoist pulleys. Obviously much slower rpm"s. They have bushings lined with a teflon impregnated cloth can't Lube them or the cloth will fall apart. My interest in this subject is because I am thinking of going with a Viper so I can install a King Air suspension in my sled for the ultimate ride. And of course the aftermarket power steering kit. So I am I am interested in the durability of these Yamacats.

Actually the bushings wear from shock loading, in forward gear the bushing sees zero rpm. Only spins on the shaft when in reverse. Pretty sure nobody is doing over 5 mph in reverse, so it’s extremely low rpm when it actually spins.
Don’t over tighten the chain, no less than 1 turn out. Frickin broken record

 

[stevewithOCD]

Now that i've had mine apart and looked at how this thing works, i don't understand why there is a bushing at ALL.
We go in reverse maybe 50 yards ALL year at 10 rpm's so when it does spin, it would take a millennium to wear steel on steel even with NO oil.
Now i get if something was to wear it should be this bearing instead of the shaft.
But i would think the bushing should be just ONE notch softer then the shaft on the "Steel Hardness Notch List"

Like SteveO, the Avatar Swapping Maniac says, it wears from shock loading NOT spinning or RPM's.
Steel on Steel NOT spinning with a good fit and one drop of oil shouldn't wear at all. The coating is useless in my eyes. It wears & lets the gear get sloppy ruining people's trips.

Although my gear had 10,000 miles on it, i got lucky. My buds' at 3000 miles went bad at the beginning of a week long trip so we towed it home.
TRIP OVER!
That happened an hour after my coolant hose in the tunnel broke. Different thread, different rant.

P.S. I'm not sure if there actually is a "Steel Hardness Notch List", but you fellas know me long enough to get the OCD lingo

 

[Fast]

View attachment 150466
We used this. It's .020" larger, so just some passes on a drill press after pressing it in until the fit was really perfect on the shaft, far better than new. (on oilite, not coated)

Where can we buy these bushings?

 

[ClutchMaster]

McMaster

 

[twyztid]

Now that i've had mine apart and looked at how this thing works, i don't understand why there is a bushing at ALL.
We go in reverse maybe 50 yards ALL year at 10 rpm's so when it does spin, it would take a millennium to wear steel on steel even with NO oil.
Now i get if something was to wear it should be this bearing instead of the shaft.
But i would think the bushing should be just ONE notch softer then the shaft on the "Steel Hardness Notch List"

Like SteveO, the Avatar Swapping Maniac says, it wears from shock loading NOT spinning or RPM's.
Steel on Steel NOT spinning with a good fit and one drop of oil shouldn't wear at all. The coating is useless in my eyes. It wears & lets the gear get sloppy ruining people's trips.

Although my gear had 10,000 miles on it, i got lucky. My buds' at 3000 miles went bad at the beginning of a week long trip so we towed it home.
TRIP OVER!
That happened an hour after my coolant hose in the tunnel broke. Different thread, different rant.

P.S. I'm not sure if there actually is a "Steel Hardness Notch List", but you fellas know me long enough to get the OCD lingo

I have a take-ff 17 Sidewinder jackshaft on the shelf and I think I am going to see if a local machine shop has the equipment to check the hardness where the bushing rides. If it is hard enough, the bushing I posted about earlier should never wear out. It is a Copper, Nickel, Tin bronze alloy and has 5x the load capabilities of the SAE660 cast bronze bushing that is working for some (McMaster-Carr type listed previously by Clutchmaster).

 

[cannondale27]

I have a take-ff 17 Sidewinder jackshaft on the shelf and I think I am going to see if a local machine shop has the equipment to check the hardness where the bushing rides. If it is hard enough, the bushing I posted about earlier should never wear out. It is a Copper, Nickel, Tin bronze alloy and has 5x the load capabilities of the SAE660 cast bronze bushing that is working for some (McMaster-Carr type listed previously by Clutchmaster).

That would be great BUT you cannot count on the hardness of everyone’s Jackshaft to be the same. That’s issue

 

[ClutchMaster]

I have a take-ff 17 Sidewinder jackshaft on the shelf and I think I am going to see if a local machine shop has the equipment to check the hardness where the bushing rides. If it is hard enough, the bushing I posted about earlier should never wear out. It is a Copper, Nickel, Tin bronze alloy and has 5x the load capabilities of the SAE660 cast bronze bushing that is working for some (McMaster-Carr type listed previously by Clutchmaster).

I would be willing to try a slightly harder bushing but the soft coated bushing lasts a decent amount of time if there’s nothing wrong. Just fix the real problem.

660 bronze has been used for years as the bushing material of choice inside gear boxes.
They use it in heavy equipment pivot pin bushings, it’s one of the best materials you can use to prevent galling and wear on hard steel shafts.

If OCD’s sled can go 10k miles and not wear out but yours lasts only 2k, you have issues. I would try to solve the root cause problem instead of applying a band-aid fix.

M2C

 

[ClutchMaster]

That would be great BUT you cannot count on the hardness of everyone’s Jackshaft to be the same. That’s issue

That’s what she said!

 

[SumpBuster]

That’s what she said!

Interesting how mechanical things imitate life! LOL