Which Belt adjuster is best

[NOS-PRO]

I got one from OSP and the adjusting ring kept loosening up because the slot is/was too deep, there was not enough material and the aluminum stretched.

I wanted a belt removal/adjuster combo, so I made the prototype for Thunder Products and that is what I run now because it's more beefy and something I made Thunder Products sent the prototype to their machine shop and is selling tons of adjusters now.

 

[Beerman]

I have both OSP's and TPI's (long story). I really like OSP's products, but the TPI is nicer - I recommend Thunder's.

 

[GlennM]

I have both OSP's and TPI's (long story). I really like OSP's products, but the TPI is nicer - I recommend Thunder's.

Nicer? Lol

 

[Beerman]

Nicer? Lol

Fair enough. Details - TPI's has a larger adjusting ring with knurling that allows you to more easily adjust deflection. They both work, both cost the same, but the beefiness and ability to securely hold the adjuster when turning in or out makes the TPI a "nicer" piece, IMHO. But again, OSP makes great stuff and you can't go wrong with either now that they fixed the floating washer issue.

 

[**sj**]

I have the osp adjuster. It works like it's supposed to.

Here's the problem. The threads go bad on the adjuster after a lot of use. My adjuster worked the first year fine but the second year it seized up. The threads roll over. I believed ita caused by the nylon black washer rolling up and down the threads.

I think this issue will happen on any aluminum adjuster

cannondale is right...anti seize the threads...

joe ltx
the reason your threads are like that is the metal washer (which last year the udpate was to remove the washer) the washer was there originally as something to push against and not gouge the plastic...the latest have a new special plastic...and its recommended to just round off the end of the belt change bolt pushing against the plastic.... as most of you know , Big Jim passed away recently...His son Jason is making his best attempt at it..and was the machinist....Joe ...p.m. me ..

one key point I like about the OSP...nice plastic between and protecting a pretty helix for belt change..

 

[Beerman]

OSP makes good stuff, I have their billet intake on the SW and it's gorgeous. Still a great group there but the sport will miss Big Jim for sure.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

cannondale is right...anti seize the threads...

joe ltx
the reason your threads are like that is the metal washer (which last year the udpate was to remove the washer) the washer was there originally as something to push against and not gouge the plastic...the latest have a new special plastic...and its recommended to just round off the end of the belt change bolt pushing against the plastic.... as most of you know , Big Jim passed away recently...His son Jason is making his best attempt at it..and was the machinist....Joe ...p.m. me ..

one key point I like about the OSP...nice plastic between and protecting a pretty helix for belt change..

my version does not have the belt removal bolt, so no thin washer

 

[**sj**]

oops...thought I saw the thin washer...old eyes...

 

[hibshman25]

Here's a quick video of one I've created. Also a link to it on my website.

http://www.barnofparts.com/belt-adjust-change-tool-new

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Looks like another great innovation.
Gotta say I like the look of the new tool. Looks more durable. The use of stock washer is a great idea if anything ever came loose.

I still think belt changing is quickest the old fashion way of grabbing the helix and turning imo.

Keep up the great work

 

[hibshman25]

Looks like another great innovation.
Gotta say I like the look of the new tool. Looks more durable. The use of stock washer is a great idea if anything ever came loose.

I still think belt changing is quickest the old fashion way of grabbing the helix and turning imo.

Keep up the great work

I agree its quickest to just push and turn, but you'd be surprised how many guys don't understand the concept. The gouge marks from pry bars on secondary sheaves on sleds I part out are proof! Ha.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

I agree its quickest to just push and turn, but you'd be surprised how many guys don't understand the concept. The gouge marks from pry bars on secondary sheaves on sleds I part out are proof! Ha.

Haha I never seen a bar used.

O and I got my blown belt guard in the mail. Nice work.

 

[**sj**]

Here's a quick video of one I've created.

Nice Travis...

that looks beefy...your stuff is top notch..

the stock washer with an actual bolt you can get to is nice...for if you were to blow a belt ...you can get a normal wrench in the tool kit on the bolt...unless you carried a socket.......does the float piece actually touch the helix? or would it possibly touch a dalton helix>? I like the counter sunk holes....could they be added 12-3-6-9 o'clock for easier and more access ?

 

[maim]

looks good!

lol i had the belt off my apex xtx so fast when i bought it that the sales rep went "huh, i guess you have done this before"

 

[NOS-PRO]

I agree its quickest to just push and turn, but you'd be surprised how many guys don't understand the concept. The gouge marks from pry bars on secondary sheaves on sleds I part out are proof! Ha.

Also, the snowmobilers that don't have the strength in their hands to do the secondary clutch to remove the belt because of diabetes, loss of an arm or people with poor strength. I ride with a lot of friends that have issues....but to make things easier so they CAN go snowmobiling, that is why I created the one for TP.