3500 miles driveshaft and bearing smoked

[cannondale27]

Good to hear something positive. Hope they junk the old stock.

 

[snowbeast]

Oh yes I can. If I can belts to stay on this thing and clutch rollers to last, I may have it perfected! If not, it won't be long and I'll be back to Doo also. Just a dang shame a company can't get this right after the first time let alone after this many years.


One other thing I should point out on my new shaft is the slight change in driver sizing. I noticed a different size CNC relief cut around the drive sprockets and measured up a .040" larger size where the track rides on the diameter of the sprocket vs my old ones. Which means they have built more lead into the system which I feel is huge. I feel this will greatly improve the track ratcheting and speed of the machine. It doesn't take even one revolution of the track now for the track to bind up and try and climb the sprockets just pulling it around by hand. Most people would think this is bad and not correct and would rob speed with the track binding, but it is in fact a GOOD THING because as the power is put down the pitch needs to engage the lug coming on to the sprocket and not try to climb it right away and ratchet, so lead must be built into every lug on the sprocket so the one coming on can engage properly like that.

I'm hopeful the bearing won't spin and the track won't ratchet anymore.

Hey, at least the tolerance is tight on the bearing and the sprockets have been altered in size and configuration. Thats a plus!

At woody,s Yamaha shop he must of had one of the older shafts,because my fitment was .007 and you could still wobble it on shaft.

 

[Lonerider]

As of 12-21-18 there was 1 factory yamaha (did not check arctic cat) driveshaft in stock in north america for the sidewinder. The note that comes up to order ones says n backorder till late january. Sorry but I didn't want to share this till I had mine in hand. There was 3 on this past monday, looks like KnappAttak might have got the other?

 

[STAIN]

They are $159.00 aftermarket. They MAY fit a little tighter.

 

[Byam]

At woody,s Yamaha shop he must of had one of the older shafts,because my fitment was .007 and you could still wobble it on shaft.

The primary roller are tighter spec than that

 

[snowbeast]

The primary roller are tighter spec than that

I guess I must of missed something here,i was speaking of the driveshaft to bearing fit.

 

[Byam]

Primary roller are made to roll on the pin right!
Roller to pin Spec is normaly 0,005-0,007! How can the drive shaft bearing can turn and hold if the spec are the same than the roller

 

[snowbeast]

Primary roller are made to roll on the pin right!
Roller to pin Spec is normaly 0,005-0,007! How can the drive shaft bearing can turn and hold if the spec are the same than the roller

Don't know,i sure hope my set screw holds it,it did go on sloopy IMO.

 

[Spaceman]

Hello All, A locking collar would be the best answer, but as a long time Cat guy I will tell you Cat uses parts that are on the market for other apps. If the bearing industry doesn't have a collar bearing, Cat won't pay for a one off design. Also

unless I missed it somewhere in some other thread, I think lock tight isn't being mentioned enough. The lame tolerance can be made up with red lock tight. It would be an even bond vs. the set screw. when the bearing is worn, a little heat will bring it off. JMO. Thanks and Merry Christmas to all!​

 

[cannondale27]

Hello All, A locking collar would be the best answer, but as a long time Cat guy I will tell you Cat uses parts that are on the market for other apps. If the bearing industry doesn't have a collar bearing, Cat won't pay for a one off design. Also

unless I missed it somewhere in some other thread, I think lock tight isn't being mentioned enough. The lame tolerance can be made up with red lock tight. It would be an even bond vs. the set screw. when the bearing is worn, a little heat will bring it off. JMO. Thanks and Merry Christmas to all!​

Having Loctited already and gone through the HELL of getting that Caliper off after I can guarantee the Loctite will hold but you will pay for it at removal time. Snowbeast with .007 clearance I doubt even Loctite would do any good. That loose should have gotten a new better fit shaft or a shim and then Loctite. I like the peen method since no matter how big you make the Peen when the bearing is put on it will shear or push back the Peen making the fit you want. But it has to be a reasonably decent shaft size to begin with.

 

[number1kyster]

I have a brand new 2018 RTX with 50 miles on it. I'm wondering if I should pull the bearing and peen the shaft, or loc-tite it?

How long does it take to pull the bearing?

 

[cannondale27]

I have a brand new 2018 RTX with 50 miles on it. I'm wondering if I should pull the bearing and peen the shaft, or loc-tite it?

How long does it take to pull the bearing?

I just did it. 15minutes easy. I like the gearwrench for getting those 3 bolts in tunnel holding caliper.

 

[cannondale27]

I added washers Like Knap did also.

 

[Spaceman]

Having Loctited already and gone through the HELL of getting that Caliper off after I can guarantee the Loctite will hold but you will pay for it at removal time. Snowbeast with .007 clearance I doubt even Loctite would do any good. That loose should have gotten a new better fit shaft or a shim and then Loctite. I like the peen method since no matter how big you make the Peen when the bearing is put on it will shear or push back the Peen making the fit you want. But it has to be a reasonably decent shaft size to begin with.

Hi Cannon, I'm confused about the caliper. For the bearing wouldn't heat take care of the lock tight? It is a shame that these shafts have such horrible quality control.

 

[Goose1200]

I just did it. 15minutes easy. I like the gearwrench for getting those 3 bolts in tunnel holding caliper.

Are you able to do this with the suspension in place or is it best to remove the skid?