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3500 miles driveshaft and bearing smoked

Hi Cannon, I'm confused about the caliper. For the bearing wouldn't heat take care of the lock tight? It is a shame that these shafts have such horrible quality control.
Heat will do it but the bearing will be shot
One of my buddy made me this simple puller. Plate thickness is overkill... lol. You have to split the caliper to use it
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Are you able to do this with the suspension in place or is it best to remove the skid?
absolutely no need to remove skid;)!
 

I just replaced this bearing on a 2014 turbo cat. He has been running a @250 hp for almost all of the 6000 miles on the sled. The bearing was original and the shaft had no wear.
I wonder how much variance in diameter there is from shaft to shaft?
 
Hi Cannon, I'm confused about the caliper. For the bearing wouldn't heat take care of the lock tight? It is a shame that these shafts have such horrible quality control.
I wasn't thinking about the back half of the caliper. Makes sense now. Thanks.
 
I have a brand new 2018 RTX with 50 miles on it. I'm wondering if I should pull the bearing and peen the shaft, or loc-tite it?

How long does it take to pull the bearing?
It's a brand new sled and you shouldn't have to do anything to it other than ride it and enjoy it.
 
Are you able to do this with the suspension in place or is it best to remove the skid?
I did it the first time with suspension in place and track loose. Danger is when that side of shaft is crooked its putting loads on the chaincase side. Lot of leverage there.
 
Just checked mine today 2800 miles 2000 Was with 270 tune, Bearing has a small amount of play on shaft , Rotor is loose plus the bearing cup on the inside is stretched
 

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It's a shame that with the stress in this area that a double bearing isn't spec'ed. Jack shaft bearing also. Sounds like a job for Travis @ BOP.
 
I just did it. 15minutes easy. I like the gearwrench for getting those 3 bolts in tunnel holding caliper.
size of the gear wrench please? straight or flex head? I'm 1400 miles from my sled, want to pack one wrench, not the whole set:) 792 miles but might as well make sure it's snug, will give it some major love this summer
 
Took the time this long weekend and replaced the bearing with a quality SKF bearing I picked up at the local industrial supply. My bearing and shaft were not all that bad but showed a few rotational lines on the shaft. The clearance is amazingly loose for this application. I used the peen and O-ring method to provide some locking action of the inner race. Did mine with the suspension in place but devised a turnbuckle gadget to hold the driveshaft in place.
 
size of the gear wrench please? straight or flex head? I'm 1400 miles from my sled, want to pack one wrench, not the whole set:) 792 miles but might as well make sure it's snug, will give it some major love this summer
10mm. do you have a cordless ratchet? Break them free with the wrench and run them out with the cordless.
 
Took the time this long weekend and replaced the bearing with a quality SKF bearing I picked up at the local industrial supply. My bearing and shaft were not all that bad but showed a few rotational lines on the shaft. The clearance is amazingly loose for this application. I used the peen and O-ring method to provide some locking action of the inner race. Did mine with the suspension in place but devised a turnbuckle gadget to hold the driveshaft in place.
PN?
 
Guys,its not the bearing failing,it the crapy fit of the race to driveshaft,and its the race spinning on the shaft and wearing out the shaft,heck I could of reused my original bearing,its the fitment of the two.
 
This might be a dumb question but what does using the peen and O-ring method mean? And can this be done with the dry shaft in the Sled ?
When you remove the bearing and there is play between the bearing race and driveshaft,with something very hard,like a carbide tip on the end of a track stud,peen several marks every 90 degrees apart,so the shaft has something to rub against to try and keep the race from spinning on shaft.
 


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