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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

2017 LTX LE call it 3800 miles, i had it apart last season and it was fine, no wear at all. Took it apart last weekend and It now showed it had spun, but not bad enough to replace. Cleaned it up inside and out and at 55 lbs made it firm so i gave it an extra bump to 60 ft lbs. Used never seize on the contact surfaces and blue locktite on the bolt.
drive shaft.jpg
 

2017 LTX LE call it 3800 miles, i had it apart last season and it was fine, no wear at all. Took it apart last weekend and It now showed it had spun, but not bad enough to replace. Cleaned it up inside and out and at 55 lbs made it firm so i gave it an extra bump to 60 ft lbs. Used never seize on the contact surfaces and blue locktite on the bolt. View attachment 151475
Just curious, why put anti-seize on the bearing journal when you don't want the shaft to spin inside bearing?
 
Just curious, why put anti-seize on the bearing journal when you don't want the shaft to spin inside bearing?
Hey TFLASH.... I think he meant to say that he used anti-seize on the tri-wedges/expander on the BOP bearing saver......
 
I ordered the wedge from Travis and planning to install it in my new ltx gt..

When installing the wedge while the shaft is still in the sled how do you know how much to torque the wedge ?

Thanks in advance..

The bolt is grade 8 but the wedge isn’t hardened steel so you have to use yer head a little. A chart will tell you 85 ft/lbs with lubricated threads but in soft steel nut, 55~60 max imo.
 
FYI
When installing the wedge, sand out rust and imperfections inside the shaft hole. Lubricate the wedge and hole well with grease or anti-seize. I didn’t Loctite the bolt for fear of the wedge spinning when trying to remove it, just lube the threads. It’s a fine thread so it shouldn’t loosen if torqued over 30ft/lbs. torqued mine to 55 ft/lbs.
Ooofta! It took 55ftlbs to snug it up? Pretty worn shaft?
 
Just curious, why put anti-seize on the bearing journal when you don't want the shaft to spin inside bearing?

I only put anti-seize on the wedge so there would be no binding while torquing it down. The bearing was dry on the shaft. I'll add that the rotor still had the same amount of slop it had before the wedge, with the wedge installed all the way in, washer seated on the shaft. This is with a new Nachi Bearing
Nachi Bearing.jpg
 
I only put anti-seize on the wedge so there would be no binding while torquing it down. The bearing was dry on the shaft. I'll add that the rotor still had the same amount of slop it had before the wedge, with the wedge installed all the way in, washer seated on the shaft. This is with a new Nachi BearingView attachment 151488

10-4 got it! I did same - put anti-seize on the inside of the 3 fingers, and even put some on the triangular wedge part. Installed very nice. Locked on new parts at about 30-35 ftlbs. I even put some blue loctite on the shaft bearing journal and ID of bearing. Just wanted to be SURE that shaft is not spinning inside the bearing! :die
 
Nice machine gun bro! Always wanted to shoot an MG42 but HEY if ya got a mini gun ya don’t have to change barrels from overheating! :rofl:
 
Looks like you might even be able to feel a slight ridge on that one Cannon. I never put the calipers to mine , but i couldn't feel the wear. How much torque did you say yours took?
 
Looks like you might even be able to feel a slight ridge on that one Cannon. I never put the calipers to mine , but i couldn't feel the wear. How much torque did you say yours took?
Very slight ridge. I don’t use a torque wrench on these. Go by feel. Its pretty obvious when it’s just snug.
 


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