Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[Snorunner]

We don't mean to scare you.
Just buy the BOP adjuster & all is well.

Hurricane sells a shaft made by Black Diamond, but nobody has chimed in about it yet.

Thanks Steve! I know I can make the bearing last with the proper Lube. But I can't deal with what has been described here. I have had Crankshafts welded in the past. But I do not feel that is going to be effective on a hallow shaft. Obviously if Black Diamond makes a shaft then Cat and the aftermarket are aware of this problem. They need to get on top of this before it sinks them. My 2 Cents.

 

[Sevey]

It doesn’t seem like they are moving fast enough, or not at all. The guys with extended warranties seem to get things covered. But for the guys with 1 yr warranties the likely hood of getting this caught and dealt with by Yamaha is slim. My Yamaha dealer and a cat dealer nearby both had a garbage can full of expired drive shafts. These are not isolated problems but more of an epidemic. The only guy who has a fix is travis at BOP, the oems are silent.

MS

 

[KnappAttack]

Geuss I will have to buy a left overArctic Cat 7000 and take my chances.

So you're all cranky about having to do a wedge in a SideWinder but are going to buy a leftover Cat 7000? You realize it has the same shaft, bearing and exact same issue right?

 

[yamahaguy]

I thought thread was about Barn of Parts Driveshaft saver? Lot of posts here have nothing to do with the topic. If you want to be part of the solution stay here. If you want to bitch and just clutter up the site take it someplace else.
Good grief guy's just go ride!

Hats off to Travis, good job and thanks for all the hard work and R&D. I ordered mine and it should be here today just in time for munising TY fun ride.

 

[MrSled]

I thought thread was about Barn of Parts Driveshaft saver? Lot of posts here have nothing to do with the topic. If you want to be part of the solution stay here. If you want to bitch and just clutter up the site take it someplace else.
Good grief guy's just go ride!

Hats off to Travis, good job and thanks for all the hard work and R&D. I ordered mine and it should be here today just in time for munising TY fun ride.

So true!! I get tired of saying anything, its like those kids that need a parent.

 

[DTR 82-27]

Yes, Travis developed a fix that plagues all of our sleds. This is a huge deal and he deserves a big thank you. Mine was showing signs of wear but it wasn’t too late and the Driveshaft Saver fixed it.

Also, I have no plans to buy a Doo - like ever. If I did, I would be on Doo Talk bragging about it.

 

[FrozenTows4]

Would be nice to keep track of the torques needed for the wedge.
I know it varies from machine to machine. Maybe I'm a little OCD too.
Too bad one can't tell if the bearing has been spinning without disassembly to some degree.
I did not totally disassemble. Just loosened track and caliper. If caliper could move, I torqued it more.
Still, pretty tough to gauge.

Here's my initial torques that appeared to work wedge flush with shaft....
Wifes sled 2500 miles...32ftlbs
My sled 4500 miles...32ftlbs

Being paranoid, I thought that I could hear a little squeak once in a while when moving.
I re-torqued to 45ftlbs. Rotor still has the same amount of play as before.

Now, at 5100 miles, I do not hear that squeak sound. Or was it something else?
I'm paranoid that I torqued it too much. Or is a little on the tight side ok?
Guess my SnowCD will make me take it apart, again, and double check.

 

[DTR 82-27]

I torqued mine to 35 ft lbs like most of the guys on here. It started to grip the bearing at 30 ft lbs but I took it to 35 and the bearing was tight on the drive shaft. The brake rotor still had a little play so I left it there. I also left it out just enough to get a thin wrench on if needed. Oh, and greased the bolts threads and the three sides of the wedge. Also took emery cloth to the inside of the shaft to make sure there was no rust or other debris where the wedge sits.
Seems like everything went perfect.

 

[jonlafon1]

Would be nice to keep track of the torques needed for the wedge.
I know it varies from machine to machine. Maybe I'm a little OCD too.
Too bad one can't tell if the bearing has been spinning without disassembly to some degree.
I did not totally disassemble. Just loosened track and caliper. If caliper could move, I torqued it more.
Still, pretty tough to gauge.

Here's my initial torques that appeared to work....
Wifes sled 2500 miles...32ftlbs
My sled 4500 miles...32ftlbs

Being paranoid, I thought that I could hear a little squeak once in a while when moving.
I re-torqued to 45ftlbs.

Now, at 5100 miles, I do not hear that squeak sound. Or was it something else?
I'm paranoid that I torqued it too much. Or is a little on the tight side ok?
Guess my SnowCD will make me take it apart, again, and double check.

Run it. I think your fine with the torque you used. I used 43 on brand new shaft and bearing. Mine was installed with flats exposed. So not pushed all the way into shaft.

 

[PowderFalcon]

I torqued mine to 35 ft lbs like most of the guys on here. It started to grip the bearing at 30 ft lbs but I took it to 35 and the bearing was tight on the drive shaft. The brake rotor still had a little play so I left it there. I also left it out just enough to get a thin wrench on if needed. Oh, and greased the bolts threads and the three sides of the wedge. Also took emery cloth to the inside of the shaft to make sure there was no rust or other debris where the wedge sits.
Seems like everything went perfect.

I did the exact same on mine.

Arctic Cat bandaid #72 engaged !

 

[twyztid]

I did not disassemble anything on my Viper when I installed it. The sled had 1450 miles on it when installed. I installed it with about 1/8" of the flats exposed and torqued it to 50 ft-lbs

 

[Sledroll]

I did not disassemble anything on my Viper when I installed it. The sled had 1450 miles on it when installed. I installed it with about 1/8" of the flats exposed and torqued it to 50 ft-lbs

I have a new axle and bearing in there now , and plan to add the bearing saver at some point in the short term , as a favor to the next owner , which will probably be a friend.

 

[WinderFab]

Installed the BOP wedge today, I wanted to see how much play there was on a new sled 0 miles and yes the bearing to shaft had play so I,
-Dropped the track to install BOP coolant hose protectors but they don’t seem to work on the 2020.
- Removed the 3 bolts holding the calliper on
- Removed the rotor
- Put the calliper back on without the rotor and got to just over 30 ft lbs with the wedge to snug up the bearing to the shaft
- Took everything back apart reassembled the rotor torqued the wedge to 35 ft lbs and all was good..
I had the wedge sticking out about 1/8” or just enough to slide in a bike wrench to hold the flat spots, also probably easier to remove when needed..
Thanks Travis

 

[hellflyer]

I put mine in last week! Coated all with antisieze the snugged it a bit then tapped it all the way in to the washer. Then torqued it to 35ftlb

 

[WinderFab]

While I had the rotor off I removed the seal on the bearing to see if the bearing had grease from the factory which it did.

Sled was parking in a room temperature work shop for several days prior to doing this work.
While I had the calliper off the shaft the bearing was quite firm to turn, I know the bearing has 0 Km’s but how will the bearing spin while sled is sitting outside in sub zero temps, then once sled gets too operating temp we jump on and give that shaft a tremendous amount of hp. With all the play between the both no wonder the shaft spins.

I’ve watched Travis’s videos and how to install the wedge, as he recommends just to snug it up because of chassis flex and so on.

JMO but what I seen while installing the wedge I’m going to keep mine locked tight in placed..

Big thanks to Travis..