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Getting rid of the roll over valve

I get what your saying knapp and to be honest a few of us that do ride the mountains need some fix or mod as well..I'd rather lose some oil out the drain hose then to take my sled back to the dealer ever 2 weeks to reseal my oil tank cuz the rollover valve keeps freezing..my riding buddy is on tank reseal number 4 already
 

saskattakman said:
I get what your saying knapp and to be honest a few of us that do ride the mountains need some fix or mod as well..I'd rather lose some oil out the drain hose then to take my sled back to the dealer ever 2 weeks to reseal my oil tank cuz the rollover valve keeps freezing..my riding buddy is on tank reseal number 4 already
Click to expand...
Maybe you should get rid of the roll over valve and carry a couple quarts of oil just in case you roll it over. I'm not sure how much oil you will lose, maybe not much at all.
 
that's what I'm trying to figure out..fixing one problem kinda creates another..if I could buy a valve like oft or motor kill supplies with their kits I'd wire in a relay and tie it in direct to tether and install valve inline to the hose you guys installed
 
saskattakman said:
that's what I'm trying to figure out..fixing one problem kinda creates another..if I could buy a valve like oft or motor kill supplies with their kits I'd wire in a relay and tie it in direct to tether and install valve inline to the hose you guys installed
Click to expand...
I'm not really sure how well the stock valve works. From what I have read if the engine is still running after a roll over the oil will still go out the valve. The only time the valve will close is when the engine shuts off.
 
saskattakman said:
that's what I'm trying to figure out..fixing one problem kinda creates another..if I could buy a valve like oft or motor kill supplies with their kits I'd wire in a relay and tie it in direct to tether and install valve inline to the hose you guys installed
Click to expand...

Put the 1200 Rotax valve in there and you'll have no worries. I have a picture of it in my first post. I went to rig it up on mine a week ago and decided against it as the fit is tight and I figured I didn't really need it in there at all.

Just add a small 5/8" silicone from e-bay on the top of the tank and run the loop of hose up over the top just like we did.

I could even sell you my Rotax roll over valve and 90* elbow if you wanted it. The rotax valve shuts off once past 90* roll and also has a relief valve in it if the engines still running and building pressure. Yamaha should takes notes on it and make a change to their system.
 
I like all of your ideas guys but still need my ROV... but affraid one day it will get stuck close!
 

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saskattakman said:
this is a great idea yes but over $500 can by the time I get it shipped to me...I don't need all the fancy electric boxes just a simple valve and tether
Click to expand...

Or just a simple Rotax 1200 roll over valve like I said.
 
This might sound crazy but here it goes.Could a person tee into before the roll over valve and hook up a gauge and have it mounted were visible or in that case a high pressure idiot (oil)light .We know pressure builds when roll over valve not functioning.My sled has been sitting in warm garage and has not been running for a while so I took off hose at outlet side of valve and started it up ,no pressure build up or anything even with finger over outlet.Then I took off hose at inlet side of valve and started it up, all kinds of pressure and back pressure build up with finger over hose.I then gently pushed in plunger on valve a couple of times hooked hose back up and started sled up.Now have pressure at outlet side so valve must have been sticking,and yes I verified that valve closes when sled not running and opens again when running.This was all done with sled at idle.Never thought about trying to hook up gauge or light till now and do not have the time to but there are guys on this forum with more knowledge and experience that might be able to do something with this idea or have already figured out it would not work and I just have not read about it.Sorry about the long winded post.thanks
 
I had given some thought to having a T with hose like Rockerdan had originally with a shut off valve on it. When the sled is cold keep the valve open till the muffler and turbo warmed it up then close the valve and return it to stock form. It sounds like a pain but you could put the shut off valve at the end of the hose down by the foot well so you can reach it without opening the side panel.
 
I had installed Dan's original setup with the T but returned to stock with a straight coupling. Haven't rolled a sled in several years but ya never know. Seeing the photos with the oil sludge in these tubes and knowing that valve is a POS may give me the mojo to put the big loop vent on one day.
 
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