Nytro Freeride build (2013 build page 27)

[revster]

I also drained the tank and pulled it so I could get the Hindle system off to send it back and deal with the broken collector. I am going to hold off posting the pics and telling the details till I have it dealt with so it's a complete report.

However some good news, when I took the exhaust cover off I discovered that the Moose Racing adhesive heat shield that I used to replace the failed stock shield seems to be holding up very well!!



So here she sits. Lots to do and we had a trace amount of snow on the ground today (gone by 9am) to motivate me to get at it.

 

[snoprof6]

will you still be using a 136 track or are the rails too long?

 

[revster]

will you still be using a 136 track or are the rails too long?

Nope 144x2" track. My 136" started to come apart last year so I figured it was a good time to switch to 144.

 

[LEE337]

That is great results with the heat shield! Thanks for sharing.

 

[OVR4D]

That is great results with the heat shield! Thanks for sharing.

X2

 

[revster]

Finally got some time to get back at the sled.

The front end of the Iceage rails had to be cut back for the RMK rail caps to fit on all the way. The one in the background is done and the one in the foreground is waiting to be butchered.



....and happy results

 

[revster]

I lined the stock rails up against the Ice age one to see how the ends compared. It looks like I will just need to trim the ends off the RMK caps and the extro drivers should clear.

Yamaha rails in foreground, iceage in the background...



Here is a shot that shows the different approach angle of the iceage rails. Iceage in foreground and the Yamaha's are peaking out underneath.

 

[revster]

This pic is what is left of my Skinz bumper after my run in with the tree last year. I'm pretty sure that bumper saved my sled from worse damage but it was destroyed in the process. I'd like to get another one but it's just not in the budget for this year. The stock will have to go back on......after I cut this off that is.....

 

[revster]

Over the summer I bought a complete set of used A-arms to replace the bent ones. I got the left side mounted up and put new spindle bushings in while the spindle was off. I don't need to replace the right side A-arms however the ball joints in these arms are much tighter then mine so I'm going to do both sides.

As for the shocks I really don't have a good reason why I replaced the Fox float X with there Hygear worked over ones. The Float X worked great but seemed to required more maintenance and my shock guy charged me more to rebuild them. So when I bought the A-arms I bought these as well from the same TY member. They look pretty cool, I know that much....

 

[revster]

Here is one thing that I am considering and I'd love to get some opinions on this.

I was looking at putting an extra cross shaft in the lower position where the transfer blocks go. I would have to put some plastic on it somehow so it's not metal on metal but this would allow the skid to transfer further back. I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not. I know some guys have removed the blocks altogether but not sure this is what I want.

 

[dubla92]

I can't see why your plan wont work. You are right though, do not remove the blocks completely. You will get awesome transfer but it will ride like crap and the suspension gets a nasty clunk when it cycles.

 

[revster]

I can't see why your plan wont work. You are right though, do not remove the blocks completely. You will get awesome transfer but it will ride like crap and the suspension gets a nasty clunk when it cycles.

Now that we have some snow, I might just put the stock blocks on and see how it is with the long skid, it worked well as a 136 so shouldn't be too much different.

 

[raginyamaha]

Here is one thing that I am considering and I'd love to get some opinions on this.

I was looking at putting an extra cross shaft in the lower position where the transfer blocks go. I would have to put some plastic on it somehow so it's not metal on metal but this would allow the skid to transfer further back. I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not. I know some guys have removed the blocks altogether but not sure this is what I want.

put rubber hose around that shaft.will wear out but is cheap

 

[revster]

Yeah that would work, just not sure I'm going to bother screwing with it at this point. I think I might put the stock ones in and see how it works I may not need to mess with it.

 

[revster]

Since the old track was junk I cut it off and mounted up the skid last night to test the the clearance between the extro drivers and the rail caps.



I used a ratchet strap to compress the front of the suspension and this is as close as they get.



I think I will still likely trim the end of the cap but at least now I know it's not an issue.