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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing

It sounds like he backed out the set screw, and likely market it with a small drill bit (maybe 1/8), then pulled the bearing off, and drilled it with the proper dia bit so the the set screw has something to bite and hold onto.

MS
 

It sounds like he backed out the set screw, and likely market it with a small drill bit (maybe 1/8), then pulled the bearing off, and drilled it with the proper dia bit so the the set screw has something to bite and hold onto.

MS
I thought the same. Maybe even smaller than 1/8" but you run the risk of tearing up the threads, no?!?!
 
Actually I just take the set screw out and stick the drill bit through the hole and drill a dimple in the shaft. Blue lock tite the screw in.
I have done 3 this way and have another to do when I get the chain case back together.
 
Actually I just take the set screw out and stick the drill bit through the hole and drill a dimple in the shaft. Blue lock tite the screw in.
I have done 3 this way and have another to do when I get the chain case back together.
Stain,
So you are setting the new bearing in caliper, installing brg on shaft, then just drill, add set screw (loctite) & rotate shaft to next?
Sorry, im no tech.
 
Stain,
So you are setting the new bearing in caliper, installing brg on shaft, then just drill, add set screw (loctite) & rotate shaft to next?
Sorry, im no tech.
Yes. The set screws are the last thing I do. I install the caliper/rotor and snap ring then drill all the dimples then tighten the screws in 2-3 passes
 
Yes. The set screws are the last thing I do. I install the caliper/rotor and snap ring then drill all the dimples then tighten the screws in 2-3 passes
Have bearing on hand & believe I'm on borrowed time.
Thanks, Stain
 
Have bearing on hand & believe I'm on borrowed time.
Thanks, Stain
They are easy to do. Cutting the shield off may be the biggest hassle.
You will see how much tighter they fit vs. the stock bearing.
Split the caliper when it is still bolted to the tunnel
 
They are easy to do. Cutting the shield off may be the biggest hassle.
You will see how much tighter they fit vs. the stock bearing.
Split the caliper when it is still bolted to the tunnel
Will do....
 
Actually I just take the set screw out and stick the drill bit through the hole and drill a dimple in the shaft. Blue lock tite the screw in.
I have done 3 this way and have another to do when I get the chain case back together.
Stain, do you own a repair shop? Joe
 
They are easy to do. Cutting the shield off may be the biggest hassle.
You will see how much tighter they fit vs. the stock bearing.
Split the caliper when it is still bolted to the tunnel
I just cut the seal out and put the shield back in place. I figured I'd keep it for whatever little bit of strength it adds to the tunnel.
 
I just had a shaft done there this week, and now it's $160.
Seemed a little steep.
I may just opt for new shaft next time as my other guy is having some minor health issues.
 
Just an update on my shaft. I changed the track over yesterday and with 2420 miles on it the shaft and bearing still have the same tolerance between .002-.003 Must’ve got it right again finally can’t say the same for my 2021.
 
Been busy and have not been able to update.

I had an old worn 14 viper shaft and a brand new of the latest shaft tested.

The old shaft was 47 Rockwell C where bearing rides and 20 in the center where drivers sit

The new shaft was 61 Rockwell C where bearing rides and 27 in the center where drivers sit.

Both shafts were the same alloy steel.

Based on this info, the new 23 shafts are certainly harder. Have not done any research to see what the hardness of bearing races typically are. May just have one tested as well to compare against the new shaft.
 
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Around 60 Rockwell C for a bearing race. 61 Rockwell C on the shaft is HARD whereas 47 C was definetely softer than the softest bearing races
 


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