Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[Fast]

Yes, you can do it by taking the caliper off completely or split the caliper. If you split the caliper you will need the gasket that goes between the caliper halves and then bleed the brake system. If you take the caliper off complete, you will need to loosen the track first and pull the shaft to line up the caliper and the bolt holes.

Do you mean just moving the drive shaft by hand to line up the bolt holes with the track loose

 

[Chris Rose]

Do you mean just moving the drive shaft by hand to line up the bolt holes with the track loose

Yes, I used a ratchet extension and put it in the hole of the driveshaft. It's not a hard pull. If you split the caliper, you get to flush the brake system. The seal is inexpensive and should be on the dealer inventory.

 

[SAB1]

Took mine apart yesterday. Worn shaft and brake rotor. Kinda knew it when I saw metal shavings under the rotor. Same for me had to load into the trailer and off to the dealer Saturday as they wanted the whole sled. Throws a little wrench into my tack welding of the tensioner screws.

 

[Fast]

It’s a ‘17 with 3,750 miles. Definately will be tack welding the tensioner screws also

Yamaha will warranty the drive shaft and bearing

 

[hibshman25]

Quick update. I got my samples yesterday of the 3 sided design. Initial test and it didn't work as it was just too much material to try and expand. I then proceeded to remove material so it was just 3 fingers to expand instead of nearly the whole circumference and it work excellent! Locks the bearing down and with 3 points of contact there is no wobble.

Getting the device to bite inside the shaft initially was a bit tricky at times. Sometimes a quick shot with the impact gun would seat it, but other times it would spin whole assembly. For a painless installation I'm going to have flats machined on the end and make it a little longer so flats protrude out past the shaft. This will allow one to hold the assembly with a wrench while tightening the wedge.

 

[sideshowBob]

Great work! Looking forward to installing one on my XTX

 

[MrSled]

Quick update. I got my samples yesterday of the 3 sided design. Initial test and it didn't work as it was just too much material to try and expand. I then proceeded to remove material so it was just 3 fingers to expand instead of nearly the whole circumference and it work excellent! Locks the bearing down and with 3 points of contact there is no wobble.

Getting the device to bite inside the shaft initially was a bit tricky at times. Sometimes a quick shot with the impact gun would seat it, but other times it would spin whole assembly. For a painless installation I'm going to have flats machined on the end and make it a little longer so flats protrude out past the shaft. This will allow one to hold the assembly with a wrench while tightening the wedge.

View attachment 149381

Material off in order to expand? With this still be a bolt on , set and go?

 

[hibshman25]

Material off in order to expand? With this still be a bolt on , set and go?

I had to modify my part design...no changes to drive shaft. Still simple install.

 

[MrSled]

I had to modify my part design...no changes to drive shaft. Still simple install.

Awesome!! I can’t wait for these. I have 2 trashed driveshafts and it’s Sad that one of them has less then 2500 miles.

 

[PigeonLake]

Awesome!! I can’t wait for these. I have 2 trashed driveshafts and it’s Sad that one of them has less then 2500 miles.

Amazing thread. Thanks for all your work

 

[hibshman25]

Did some testing on torque specs this morning. I'm using a 700 mile winder shaft that is in good shape so it should be good base line for those that have a good non damaged shaft. Will likely spec the working range for torque applied to be 40-90 ft lbs. On my test set up the lock starts to apply some resistance at 40ft lbs. Up until 60lbs you can still work the bearing off by hand. Once above 60lbs bearing really can't be pulled off by hand anymore. Using a grade 8 fine thread 1/2" bolt, 90ft lbs is common recommended torque spec so that will serve as the upper limit.

 

[MrSled]

Did some testing on torque specs this morning. I'm using a 700 mile winder shaft that is in good shape so it should be good base line for those that have a good non damaged shaft. Will likely spec the working range for torque applied to be 40-90 ft lbs. On my test set up the lock starts to apply some resistance at 40ft lbs. Up until 60lbs you can still work the bearing off by hand. Once above 60lbs bearing really can't be pulled off by hand anymore. Using a grade 8 fine thread 1/2" bolt, 90ft lbs is common recommended torque spec so that will serve as the upper limit.

I currently have the wifes sled apart putting in new drive shaft, you have an estimate on when you think this new product would be available. This will be in high demand and sell like hot cakes.

 

[Fast]

I currently have the wifes sled apart putting in new drive shaft, you have an estimate on when you think this new product would be available. This will be in high demand and sell like hot cakes.

x2

 

[cannondale27]

X3

 

[STAIN]

My track is coming out shortly. Would love to have the shaft welded, trued and install your wedge kit.