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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Still working on this. Tried a design easier to machine, but it didn't work. Here's a little demonstration video with the most successful version to date. Going to try one more design and hope to get sample made up end of week.


Good info Travis..thanks for posting.

Maybe a dumb question here, but I’m planning on replacing my driveshaft bearing this fall in my 18 winder. My Sled has a tad shy of 2000 miles on it(1926 to be exact), and I just want to ward off any potential issues by running it any further. I don’t know what mine(bearing or shaft) looks like at this point..I’ll know when it comes out this fall. Sled ran great last season...but who knows??

So here’s the dumb part....Do I only need one of these bearings? Or do I need one on each side of the shaft for this sled?? In the past on other machines, I remember it was only one bearing...but was just wondering if this Winder is different in that regard??

Stock bearing from Yamaha ok/good enough, or is there a better option for this?? Just wondering??

Thank you to anybody who chimes in on this/these question(s).
 

Good info Travis..thanks for posting.

Maybe a dumb question here, but I’m planning on replacing my driveshaft bearing this fall in my 18 winder. My Sled has a tad shy of 2000 miles on it(1926 to be exact), and I just want to ward off any potential issues by running it any further. I don’t know what mine(bearing or shaft) looks like at this point..I’ll know when it comes out this fall. Sled ran great last season...but who knows??

So here’s the dumb part....Do I only need one of these bearings? Or do I need one on each side of the shaft for this sled?? In the past on other machines, I remember it was only one bearing...but was just wondering if this Winder is different in that regard??

Stock bearing from Yamaha ok/good enough, or is there a better option for this?? Just wondering??

Thank you to anybody who chimes in on this/these question(s).
You could probably just repack it but if replacing I had good luck with stock. If memory serves me right the other side is same bearing just seal removed but either way chain case side should be fine for many more seasons as long as you change the oil regularly.
 
You could probably just repack it but if replacing I had good luck with stock. If memory serves me right the other side is same bearing just seal removed but either way chain case side should be fine for many more seasons as long as you change the oil regularly.

Thanks for the pertinent info Cannon...Appreciated.
 
At 2300 miles I had to replace the shaft and bearing. It was wobbly on the shaft and had already wore the shaft out. Bearing was still good. I replaced with a new shaft and stock bearing but I locktited the bearing on, added an o-ring behind the bearing and put a set screw in the shaft to hold the bearing from rotating. I’ll get it apart this fall to see how it held.


I like this vid of what BOP has come up with a lot ! It looks like the way to go.
 
Still working on this. Tried a design easier to machine, but it didn't work. Here's a little demonstration video with the most successful version to date. Going to try one more design and hope to get sample made up end of week.


Looks trick but will it affect how the brake disk will slides on?
 
The expansion is concentrated to just the area where the bearing rides. It does not affect the splines where rotor goes.
When you get it perfected i'll take one.
 
Travis, How do you think a Oring or something similar between the rotor and inner bearing race would do if it had a washer tightened up against the rotor to keep it all tight?
 
I'll take 6!
 
Travis, How do you think a Oring or something similar between the rotor and inner bearing race would do if it had a washer tightened up against the rotor to keep it all tight?

Fixing the rotor exposes runout in driveshaft.one of my test set ups with rotor drawn tight against race caused tunnel to flex in and out as shaft rotated.
 


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