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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

I like the theory also but just thinking out loud here. There's no way to apply equal brake pad pressure to both sides of the rotor if the caliper and rotor are both fixed Right? Just like on a car when the caliper pins rust or seized up the caliper is no longer floating causing one of the pads to drag overheating the rotor and uneven wear on pads. In the case of the Viper/Winder the rotor floats instead of the caliper That's why they wiggle back and forth a bit. Wish that bearing had a couple of set screws like the old Yamahas
 

I like the theory also but just thinking out loud here. There's no way to apply equal brake pad pressure to both sides of the rotor if the caliper and rotor are both fixed Right? Just like on a car when the caliper pins rust or seized up the caliper is no longer floating causing one of the pads to drag overheating the rotor and uneven wear on pads. In the case of the Viper/Winder the rotor floats instead of the caliper That's why they wiggle back and forth a bit. Wish that bearing had a couple of set screws like the old Yamahas

The caliper has pistons on each side, the pistons on each side will equal the pressure

You want the rotor locked solid and applying pressure to hold the bearing.
 
What happens when locking rotor, is you get a pulsation in lever. That is the downfall.

Dan
You mean like the one I had a few hundred before the bearing took a crap? Lol. Mine was like a real nice vibration. I’m not talking The Beach Boys song “good vibrations”.
 
I would worry about side loading the INNER snap ring on the axle, and also the outer snap ring will get side loaded by these 3 screws. Also, now the brake rotor is not floating, It will play havoc on the lever feel.

Dan
The rotor does not have to float since even though it’s a junk Caliper it has 2 pistons. Also if you look at a mountain sled Cat for sure. The driveshaft has two big nuts. One for tightening and one to lock it. Seems to work for them.
 
Been working on a potential idea to lock the inner bearing race to prevent the drive shaft from spinning inside the race. The ring has 3 tapped holes and would utilize 3 bolts which when tightened will press the brake rotor hub against the inner race. Once bolts are tight there would be a nut to lock it in place (not shown in my fit up photos below). To install the ring approximate 1/8" of material needs to be removed off the brake rotor hub so it will fit between the hub and outside snap ring. I used a grinder as that is the easiest method many will have acces ATTACH=full]146903[/ATTACH] View attachment 146904
Any news on this?
 
Going to mock up another concept this spring. Would like to get away from having to even modify the brake rotor if possible. Some have eluded to some sort of locking wedge to install inside the drive shaft so I'm going to experiment with that idea a little.
 
Its to bad you cant get a bearing with a set screw locking collar like Yamaha does on that bearing. I am sure the seal and the way it goes together might be rethought but since everyone on the site is re-engineering everything.. go for it!
 
After 4 drive axles I believe I have cured mine. I turned axle down where it rides in bearing, welded axle up with hard rod, turned it down to spec, now have hard against hard instead of soft axle against hard bearing. 2500 miles so far and looking good.
 
After 4 drive axles I believe I have cured mine. I turned axle down where it rides in bearing, welded axle up with hard rod, turned it down to spec, now have hard against hard instead of soft axle against hard bearing. 2500 miles so far and looking good.

So you have had 4 spun bearings on the drive axle?

Along the way which solutions did you try to resolve this before your current solution?
 
The rotor does not have to float since even though it’s a junk Caliper it has 2 pistons. Also if you look at a mountain sled Cat for sure. The driveshaft has two big nuts. One for tightening and one to lock it. Seems to work for them.

Yes, seen that too on mountain Cats!


20180413_151132~3.jpg
 
Originally I thought my problem was .0005-.0006 clearance between axle and bearing. Bought a axle from Black Diamond thinking it might be an after market build. When I got it it was a Cat axle also and I ate that one up. Also added TD tune so I think added horsepower puts more strain on drive train. Replaced another one just so I could ride, by this time I was getting good at replacing them so it wasn't a big deal. Finally decided to weld it up to give me a hard against hard surface. Like I said I now 2500 miles and so far so good. I'm not totally convinced yet but I will put more miles on to make sure. I will most likely ride another 1000 before I'm done the year so i'll see how it goes.
 
Originally I thought my problem was .0005-.0006 clearance between axle and bearing. Bought a axle from Black Diamond thinking it might be an after market build. When I got it it was a Cat axle also and I ate that one up. Also added TD tune so I think added horsepower puts more strain on drive train. Replaced another one just so I could ride, by this time I was getting good at replacing them so it wasn't a big deal. Finally decided to weld it up to give me a hard against hard surface. Like I said I now 2500 miles and so far so good. I'm not totally convinced yet but I will put more miles on to make sure. I will most likely ride another 1000 before I'm done the year so i'll see how it goes.
Buddy of mine welded his axle also 13 Turbo. Has been a good fix. No issues with bearing spinning anymore.
 


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