Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[SAB1]

Right. I didn’t. I took the foot well off and slipped it right in. 20 minute job.

 

[sailor joe]

Steve, don't sweat too much, not all Sidewinder's have the problem with the shaft bearing. Your sled is under factory warranty for a while, I'm waiting to see if I have a problem with scoring on the shaft and if I do Yamaha will replace it...If I'm missing something on the warranty please chime in. Joe

 

[ClutchMaster]

I've scanned the 43 pages herein, and watched the BOP wedge video (twice) being installed on shaft(s) located on work bench(s). As Newbie everyone is telling me how to do steps 5 - 10, but what I really want to know is how to do steps 1 - 5?



Am I removing the caliper? Black screws? Rotor? One piece (assembly). Loosening screws? Remove the a snap ring
OR, do just put the &$%# "thing" in there with some light grease like Travis says, torque it to 33 lbs and say see you next summer when I inspect the bearing.
OR, should I do nothing at all (i.e. brand new 2020 Covid touring sled never seen snow), BUT that action would be in violation of about 15 TY posts. that say......"the 1st thing you do when new is install BOP driveshaft saver before... etc, etc".
I'm leaning to putting the &$%# "thing" in there and torquing it. I shouldn't have to remove the skid to install this BOP part

Thanks. (Note below there's a Precision EFI belly pan in the way, I like those.)


View attachment 156859

Grease it up, put it in as far as possible and torque it to 50 ft/lbs.

PS. take it apart and Grease the “ramp” portion of the wedge and threads

 

[DennyTuna]

I've scanned the 43 pages herein, and watched the BOP wedge video (twice) being installed on shaft(s) located on work bench(s). As Newbie everyone is telling me how to do steps 5 - 10, but what I really want to know is how to do steps 1 - 5?

Am I removing the caliper? Black screws? Rotor? One piece (assembly). Loosening screws? Remove the a snap ring
OR, do just put the &$%# "thing" in there with some light grease like Travis says, torque it to 33 lbs and say see you next summer when I inspect the bearing.
OR, should I do nothing at all (i.e. brand new 2020 Covid touring sled never seen snow), BUT that action would be in violation of about 15 TY posts. that say......"the 1st thing you do when new is install BOP driveshaft saver before... etc, etc".
I'm leaning to putting the &$%# "thing" in there and torquing it. I shouldn't have to remove the skid to install this BOP part

Thanks. (Note below there's a Precision EFI belly pan in the way, I like those.)


View attachment 156859

Im with clutchmaster on this one. With a new shaft and bearing most likely it will start to snug up around 25 ft. lbs. and be nice and tight at 35 ft. lbs. but i wouldnt be afraid of going to 45 - 50 ft.lbs. Just make sure you still have movement (wobble) on your brake rotor and you should be good to go.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Great feed back. From everyone including Travis the manufacturer. There's alot to consider here. Deviations in shaft size, torque in wedges. Also is it tunnel flex causing this failure ,or is it simply spinning the loose fit. One thing for sure Ive changed dozens of these now and they all will fail.

Lately I've been getting the shafts welded and then Machined down to size for size. The bearing must be heated to fit. I'm hoping it's a fix but until I see 10000 Kms on a repaired shaft I'm not getting excited.

 

[sab2022]

Joe - thanks ya I know I just hate the whole dealership warranty thing and I'd like to avoid it if I can and if I do some simple things, etc. Avoid warranty, I guess so but I never had success at the dealership unless ECU related. If something is obvious screw-up then I'm back there in a second. Been meaning to send you a email to find out when your going North.

All- yes I'm going to disassemble part, grease the lands, stick it in there and torque to 35lbs, until I get more familiar with the machine. BTW- There no wobble in anything yet. Thanks, same problem (steps 1-5) w/ BOP belt adjuster but go to that thread, take a picture. Thanks for the help

 

[sailor joe]

After reading what Joe LTX-LE has to say, perhaps I should have the shaft looked at when it goes into the shop tomorrow or next week. This bearing spin seems to be a very big deal on this site so where there's smoke...
Steve, after putting on 700 miles last season, all stock except scratchers it's time to set it up correctly...I was just in such a hurry to get the sled on the trails that I took a pass on modifying...good thing I did because the trails shut down soon after and having the sled in the shop would have drove me nuts. The upgrades will be BOP tunnel strengtheners, coolant hose protectors, oil tank gasket, ride lite, GPS mount. GSE power steering. Dealer will be adding mirrors, maybe studs, maybe new ski's and whatever he deems needed...I trust the dealer, very knowledgeable and fantastic mechanic.
As far as warranty, so far its been my experience that Yamaha has stood by the warranty.. a good thing

 

[Turboflash]

I been having great luck with drilling 4 divets and using retaining compound on multiple 998's
I needed a puller and lots of heat to get the bearing to release off the shaft
I have a spare shaft on hand that I need to get spray welded and machined And out on shelf as spare incase someone needs one during the season.
Did you make your a"shoulder fit " or did you over size the shaft a bit ?

This is the left over retaining compound once I got the bearing off
View attachment 156852


Shaft cleaned up
View attachment 156851

I sized entire bearing journal for interference fit to a new high-quality bearing (according to AFBMA specs that's about .0003" interference). The "shoulder" is the stock retaining ring.

 

[sab2022]

Turboflash - an interference fit is a friction fit. The .0003" interference should satisfy AFBMA standards for bearing type, shaft rotation (rpm) and material (expansion) properties. An adjustable torque mechanical fit may be better for me because those properties (variables) are unknown to me. HOWEVER, good luck with it and hope its a solution for you.

 

[rtx moose]

Don't want to sound like a broken record, but ......IF somebody would come up with a shaft that would be "closer" to an interference fit....something we can cool the shaft with a can of duster spray(HFC) and heat the bearing in the oven so it would slide on, they would be in high demand. I know I would buy one!

This could cause problems when it needs to be changed down the road,I did this on my apex and it needed to be cut off it was seized so bad..just saying it might happen to you

 

[rtx moose]

After reading what Joe LTX-LE has to say, perhaps I should have the shaft looked at when it goes into the shop tomorrow or next week. This bearing spin seems to be a very big deal on this site so where there's smoke...
Steve, after putting on 700 miles last season, all stock except scratchers it's time to set it up correctly...I was just in such a hurry to get the sled on the trails that I took a pass on modifying...good thing I did because the trails shut down soon after and having the sled in the shop would have drove me nuts. The upgrades will be BOP tunnel strengtheners, coolant hose protectors, oil tank gasket, ride lite, GPS mount. GSE power steering. Dealer will be adding mirrors, maybe studs, maybe new ski's and whatever he deems needed...I trust the dealer, very knowledgeable and fantastic mechanic.
As far as warranty, so far its been my experience that Yamaha has stood by the warranty.. a good thing

I had my sled in and asked them to check it but it would cost me way to much if there was not a problem

 

[Hammer70]

I guess when I did mine and come up with 65 ft lbs wasn’t wrong afterwards. New shaft and bearing .001” different when did all measurements. When I pull out we will see what end result is.

thanks Pan

 

[rtx moose]

It would be nice if we knew which lot of shafts were bad,but that would be admitting to failure!!

 

[rtx moose]

I guess when I did mine and come up with 65 ft lbs wasn’t wrong afterwards. New shaft and bearing .001” different when did all measurements. When I pull out we will see what end result is.
Ohh boy .001 is horrible and way out of spec for a bearing fit..its gonna spin!!it should be at least .0005

 

[eightpilot]

Without disassembly the BOP fix is the best chance we have.... Brake rotor doesn't need to wobble either. After using the brake a few times the rotor will true out and all the pulsing in the lever will be gone.