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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Have new wedge sitting on the bench just wondering if the 21 sleds need it
 

I have one on order from Travis to throw in my '21 ZR 9000. Peace of mind in case Yam/Cat are still running through old junk, as Turboflash suggested.
 
After roughly 3000 miles on new last year driveshaft and brake side bearing with BOP driveshaft saver mine shows a little sign of spinning.

It had .003" difference between shaft and bearing new.
Greased up all of the wedge and torqued to 45lbs. Wrench flat on wedge was sticking out.

Bearing is getting fresh grease and its going back together with wedge tapped in further and higher torque.
I wait till next time to get it warrantied after the old stock is depleted.
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After roughly 3000 miles on new last year driveshaft and brake side bearing with BOP driveshaft saver mine shows a little sign of spinning.

It had .003" difference between shaft and bearing new.
Greased up all of the wedge and torqued to 45lbs. Wrench flat on wedge was sticking out.

Bearing is getting fresh grease and its going back together with wedge tapped in further and higher torque.
I wait till next time to get it warrantied after the old stock is depleted.
View attachment 157011 View attachment 157012 View attachment 157013

I would do some loc-tite 680 bearing compound too.
 
After roughly 3000 miles on new last year driveshaft and brake side bearing with BOP driveshaft saver mine shows a little sign of spinning.

It had .003" difference between shaft and bearing new.
Greased up all of the wedge and torqued to 45lbs. Wrench flat on wedge was sticking out.

Bearing is getting fresh grease and its going back together with wedge tapped in further and higher torque.
I wait till next time to get it warrantied after the old stock is depleted.
View attachment 157011 View attachment 157012 View attachment 157013

Was the bearing locked down last season? or was the 45ftlbs an assumption of being tight?
 
Was the bearing locked down last season? or was the 45ftlbs an assumption of being tight?

Yes It was locked down but I did not drive saver in flush. You can see the rust line on my saver where the wrench goes on.
I did test fit it on the bench before install last year.
 
Yes It was locked down but I did not drive saver in flush. You can see the rust line on my saver where the wrench goes on.
I did test fit it on the bench before install last year.

I had one do the same thing, the same way about the same amount of wear.. bearing locker and then back to gather with the wedge in further.
 
I had one do the same thing, the same way about the same amount of wear.. bearing locker and then back to gather with the wedge in further.

Thanks. That is what I am going to do.
 
After roughly 3000 miles on new last year driveshaft and brake side bearing with BOP driveshaft saver mine shows a little sign of spinning.

It had .003" difference between shaft and bearing new.
Greased up all of the wedge and torqued to 45lbs. Wrench flat on wedge was sticking out.

Bearing is getting fresh grease and its going back together with wedge tapped in further and higher torque.
I wait till next time to get it warrantied after the old stock is depleted.
View attachment 157011 View attachment 157012 View attachment 157013

if it had .003 last year how much does it have now?
 
if it had .003 last year how much does it have now?

I dont have any mics at home now. The shaft has some galling on it so it won't be the same measurement. Their is very little wear on the shaft but evidence of it spinning.
 
Makes us realize how much drag/resistance there is in this bearing when it's cold. And, based on my field thumbnail experiment last winter, the bearing really never does get "hot" or even warm at ordinary winter temps. There must be so much snow cooling the shaft, the tunnel, the caliper housing (which is bolted to tunnel) and the bearing that the bearing stays cool. Therefore, the bearing does have drag all the time (there would be drag even if there was no grease in it, and of course the contact seals cause drag), but of course even more when cold like in the morning after sitting outside all night.
Engine and rest of drive train doesn't really care that bearing has drag. Track shaft easily gets spun up by the gorilla engine and doesn't care if bearing has drag. So, if the two aren't locked together, shaft spins in bearing. As we've seen, it takes quite a bit of force to keep the shaft from spinning inside bearing.
I sure hope Yamaha has fixed this fit issue as they say they have. Hopefully Cat follow
 
Also do yourself a favor. Get rid of the piece of #*$&@ Yamaha bearing made in China. I had brand new Yamaha bearing, and an SKF bearing. The difference it took to spin the china bearing vs the SKF was unbelievable. Now it's real cold out, that China bearing ain't budging til it warms up.
 
That has much more to do with the grease in the bearing rather than the metal components (52100 chrome steel balls, 52100 chrome steel inner race, 52100 chrome steel outer race, and stainless steel retainer). Likely if you washed all the grease out of both, they would turn with the same force. Type and quantity of grease are a big factor. I suspect the Chinese "cheat" when it comes to the material they make the components out of. And, I would bet they aren't able to hold the same tolerances consistently as high-quality manufacturers can. Net result is shorter bearing life along with bad fits to the parts they interface with. No doubt, high quality bearings will perform better and last longer.
 


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