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Driveshaft wear at 10000kms

So this procross has been out since 2012. Same set up and never heard so much about this right..??. so why all the 998s...


Early Cats did it too, you can search for it on HCS, but the Yamaha guys are not used to this poor and idiotic engineering and speak about it more. As much as I hate to say it, the Cat guys are kinda used to the poor engineering on them and put up with it.
 

True ..Dont hear this whining or blame game from cat crowd..
 
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Relatively simple triangular puller that goes into the same 3 holes that mount the housing onto tunnel. It pushes on end of track shaft. Might need a little heat to soften green loctite.
I'd rather face this when its time to get the bearing rather than be a part of all the nightmares.

Sounds like the best approach
 
Sounds like the best approach

I think this is what I am planning to do this summer. Repack bearing and reinstall with Loctite. The next spring pull it off using a puller. I gather the caliper will have to be split to get the disc out of the way to get at the 3 holes.

Did you happen to take note of the thread size of the holes in the brake/bearing assembly with the 3 holes? and length of bolt that would work best with the puller?
MS
 
They are M8 x 1.25 x 30mm bolts that hold that housing onto the tunnel. Bolts for puller need to be about 50 mm depending on thickness and design of the plate that pushes on track shaft.
 
Anyone try the Hurricane shaft? And what makes it better? It allows bearing to be pressed on and prevents spinning on shaft??
 
BRP uses a similar design. However the bearing is ''press fit'' onto axle, and does not spin. Where as our Winders are slip fit and a terrible design which we know spins eventually.

I have a couple diff tools for the Doos when changing out tracks. The BRP tool uses a hooked design which feeds thru the slots on rotor, and hooks onto caliper to pull them off the axle.

Once you have a tool that works/fits well, be it hooks or holes to use bolt hole threads, you can then seat your bearing onto the axle using bearing mount. I recommend you do this early on, when there is the proper fitment(tolerance) between the axle and bearing. If you use it later on, the shaft will tend to not be centered upon reassembly due to track pulling on it, and then loctite sets up and you have a bad vibration.

So do this early on IMO and have a puller designed to fit. Maybe the BRP puller can be easily modified to fit the Winder caliper. Remember you dont want to pull on rotor itself, and will likely need heat. If fitment is tight you dont need alot of loctite applied IMO, just thin layer.


Dan

Video from a few yrs ago doing track swap on my DOO.

IMG_4244.jpg
 
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X2. Do it early BEFORE additional "clearance" becomes an issue.
IMO a better design would be for the bearing to be pressed onto track shaft and slip into housing because it would easy to have a couple of set screws in the aluminum housing to tighten onto the outer race of the bearing.
 
X2. Do it early BEFORE additional "clearance" becomes an issue.
IMO a better design would be for the bearing to be pressed onto track shaft and slip into housing because it would easy to have a couple of set screws in the aluminum housing to tighten onto the outer race of the bearing.


On the Doo's, the bearing slips into the outer aluminum housing, it does not spin and no need for setscrews, when I put it together, I assemble, and Doo recommends to assemble with anti-sieze. Never a failure with Doo's design like the Cat has.
 
Just shake my head .... WTF were the Cat "engineers" thinking?! Or, maybe that's the problem, they weren't thinking and they didn't test the current design long-term.
 
20190407_170500.jpg Dismantled my sled yesterday with plans to loctite the bearing. Only 2500 km on the sled and I am too late. Shaft is beyond loctite.
 


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