• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Driveshaft wear at 10000kms


The rotor is on splines and IMO is not a big deal and is meant to have some play. After I put mine back together with the green, My brake lever had a fair vibration in it initially, which took a ride or two to even out. Likely some green in there i felt.

Dan
Ah yes good call. Theres the reason why not to bond the rotor to the bearing and allow it to float on the spline.
and yes, correct. Ordered from Hurricane which has in stock and was excellent to deal with.
 
Rotor doesn't need to move, and I would prefer it tight. Too bad there wasn't a giant jam nut on the end of the shaft.
 
Rotor doesn't need to move, and I would prefer it tight. Too bad there wasn't a giant jam nut on the end of the shaft.
If it doesn't need to move and wont pulse the brake lever ....one could suggest to bond rotor and inner race...
 
Here is a puller I used for my Doo awhile back....This could very well work for the Winder.

Basically a bar with two bolts to match caliper bracket threads, must have rotor with holes/slots ect. And also a large OD washer for center bolt to push on against end of hollow shaft. would need to apply heat into hollow shaft prior.

Dan

post-75199-0-19733900-1384042502.jpg
 
Exactly what i was thinking Dan!...lol was looking for that pic you had on the 1200 working on the wifes sled last month..
Im thinking i can make use of the slots on my new rotor.

Was also wondering if the hole in the tunnel could be opened up one day if they decided to make the shaft a press fit like the doo
 
Why not 641? Do we really need high strength and without trying it or a specialist in this department who would know without trying it?
 

Attachments

  • Capture.JPG
    Capture.JPG
    104.5 KB · Views: 203
The good 638 loctite can be had from Amazon.
 


Back
Top