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Offset wrong under load? Video


Clutchmaster - My C to C is 265.1mm
 
Mine is 262 and I feel like it's working against me, requiring less offset to the point that it appears I need an offset of less than 58mm. This reduced offset also makes the belt rub on the inner primary sheave at idle. I know 262 is only a couple mm less but last night I mounted a straight edge to the chassis, next to the belt, and parallel to the secondary sheave so it would stay while I ran the sled on the stand. With no secondary shims and 58.7mm offset, it shows how the belt is angled outward at the primary at idle, and inward after shifting has started, indicating I need less offset still. I have some video but kinda hard to see.

Next up is retesting SuperTurbo's machined secondary that he was nice enough to send me, but I wonder just how much 3mm more center to center distance would help my situation?
 
NOS-PRO said:
Clutchmaster - My C to C is 265.1mm
Click to expand...
265 is a nice number to have. Along with your 61mm offset your in a good situation.

Soupy said:
Mine is 262 and I feel like it's working against me, requiring less offset to the point that it appears I need an offset of less than 58mm. This reduced offset also makes the belt rub on the inner primary sheave at idle. I know 262 is only a couple mm less but last night I mounted a straight edge to the chassis, next to the belt, and parallel to the secondary sheave so it would stay while I ran the sled on the stand. With no secondary shims and 58.7mm offset, it shows how the belt is angled outward at the primary at idle, and inward after shifting has started, indicating I need less offset still. I have some video but kinda hard to see.

Next up is retesting SuperTurbo's machined secondary that he was nice enough to send me, but I wonder just how much 3mm more center to center distance would help my situation?
Click to expand...

262 isn’t horrible as long as you stay low around 58mm offset. Make absolutely sure your clutches are parallel, I can’t stress this enough.
 
this was good stuff, now it’s gone
 
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Going to start checking more and more C to C on SW's and Vipers.
 
ClutchMaster said:
265 is a nice number to have. Along with your 61mm offset your in a good situation.



262 isn’t horrible as long as you stay low around 58mm offset. Make absolutely sure your clutches are parallel, I can’t stress this enough.
Click to expand...

I've measured parallelism a couple times a couple diff ways and it seems to be ok. I wonder if an engine support pushing it fwd slightly and keeping it there under load would be helpful in my situation?
 
Soupy said:
I've measured parallelism a couple times a couple diff ways and it seems to be ok. I wonder if an engine support pushing it fwd slightly and keeping it there under load would be helpful in my situation?
Click to expand...

With all the old supports that were on the old sleds, I only see that as being helpful. Theres a reason why some aftermarket companies are making struts to hold centers of clutches. Look at STM and their center to center braces.
 
Remeasured c to c and looked back at my notes. Mine actually measures under the spec at 261.5mm. This could also pose a problem as I'm unable to decrease offset to get my belt to run true and also will rub the belt on the primary inner sheave at idle. Now what? Back to the freaking dealer??
 
This is one of the first things the dealer should check if it is a belt blower.
 
ROCKERDAN said:
I think there should be a poll.....how many belts blown with STOCK clutching VS how many without stock.

The guys running closer to stock clutching seem to do better....

Im getting closer to stock now, and seeing less and less heat.....

You guys need to remember stock primary spring is a LIGHT finish rate.

But I think SOUPY has something else going on.
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I have to agree with this. With stock primary spring, stock helix, dalton BO secondary spring and the dalton weights I have the coolest clutches I have ever had on this sled. I think some of the other weights are just too aggressive of a curve. If you have a helix that matches it it might work better but it was a huge difference when I made the change to the dalton stuff. I used to be able to feel it slipping in the mid range and if I held it too long it would blow the belt to a million pieces. Now you can feel it holding strong all the time, has great back shift and I can hold my hands on everything no matter how hard or long I've been running it. happy happy.
 
WVTurboLTX said:
I have to agree with this. With stock primary spring, stock helix, dalton BO secondary spring and the dalton weights I have the coolest clutches I have ever had on this sled. I think some of the other weights are just too aggressive of a curve. If you have a helix that matches it it might work better but it was a huge difference when I made the change to the dalton stuff. I used to be able to feel it slipping in the mid range and if I held it too long it would blow the belt to a million pieces. Now you can feel it holding strong all the time, has great back shift and I can hold my hands on everything no matter how hard or long I've been running it. happy happy.
Click to expand...

It really isn’t the weights causing the issue with TP’s clutch kit it’s the secondary spring is just wrong. Or I should say the helix/spring combo is wrong. Heavy Hitters are very strong pushing weights and can be setup to handle a ton of power. A 35 degree helix when fully shifted out will twist a secondary spring around 60 degrees more from its initial setting. A 40 degree helix will twist the secondary spring around 15 degrees less. The orange TP secondary spring has a very high rate and becomes almost impossible to open the more you twist it. You could run the Dalton weights with the TP orange secondary spring and 35 helix and you would get the same bad results.


So let’s say you have the TP kit and want to use those Bada$$ Heavy Hitters. Here’s what you do....go out and get a 40 degree helix and put it in 3-3 with the TP orange secondary spring. Change your primary spring back to stock but keep those fancy glide washers. Run steel bolt in the center and big set screw in heal for a starting point and proceed to destroy all stock clutched winders you come across.
Did I mention check your clutch alignment, ok do that too because a lot seem to be off.
 
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