Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[ClutchMaster]

Lots of Prick punches then Green Locktite bearing mount

Sounds like a circle jerk?


You have to use the correct loctite 638 or 635.
If it’s worn over .010” weld it.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Make sure your bearing is up against the c-clip and put your rotor on right away

 

[Fast]

Sounds like a circle jerk?


You have to use the correct loctite 638 or 635.
If it’s worn over .010” weld it.

Would green 680 lock tight work?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Wouldn't gteen 680 lock tight work?

Yea it should be fine

 

[PigeonLake]

Is this happening to Vipers? If not , why not?

 

[MrSled]

Is this happening to Vipers? If not , why not?

It is just not as common for some reason.

 

[maim]

pigeonlake, yes it has happend to viper owners but from what i have seen, not as often as the sidewinders.

 

[cannondale27]

pigeonlake, yes it has happend to viper owners but from what i have seen, not as often as the sidewinders.

I agree. Power and acceleration and I think the shaft size varies and even .001in matters.

 

[hibshman25]

Got my test sample over weekend and tried it out this morning. The wedge insert is tapped and slides inside the drive shaft. A quick shot with an impact gun seats the wedge inside. Need to finalize the spacers/cup that seats against the rotor. I just stacked some random washers/ spacers together to test the wedge.

Should be a very simple install with no drilling, tapping, welding of any sorts to the drive shaft. I believe it was KLR650 that did this same concept but had a threaded bung welded inside the drive shaft.

 

[STAIN]

Interesting

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Not sure I love the idea of side-loading the rear circlip. Any way to have something more substantial behind it?

 

[hibshman25]

Not sure I love the idea of side-loading the rear circlip. Any way to have something more substantial behind it?

Could possibly make 2 piece split collar that locks into the snap ring grove on shaft, but personally think the snap ring will be fine. I have not determined a torque spec yet to tighten the bolt, but I think if over torqued, the bolt would fail before the snap ring. Snap rings are designed to with stand side loading. Prime example would be shocks. Seal heads are held in place with wire rings once you charge them. Or take a look at a mono shock RA shock. The stepped preload retainer is held in place by a simple wire ring. You want to talk about loading a snap ring... let a 350+ lb rider cycle an 8.0 big boy spring on a monoshock!

 

[74Nitro]

Could possibly make 2 piece split collar that locks into the snap ring grove on shaft, but personally think the snap ring will be fine. I have not determined a torque spec yet to tighten the bolt, but I think if over torqued, the bolt would fail before the snap ring. Snap rings are designed to with stand side loading. Prime example would be shocks. Seal heads are held in place with wire rings once you charge them. Or take a look at a mono shock RA shock. The stepped preload retainer is held in place by a simple wire ring. You want to talk about loading a snap ring... let a 350+ lb rider cycle an 8.0 big boy spring on a monoshock!


View attachment 148713

Yes, but that shock collar is over top of the snap ring preventing it from coming out, unlike the snap ring setup on the Winder axle. I otherwise like this solution. Good job.

 

[hibshman25]

Yes, but that shock collar is over top of the snap ring preventing it from coming out, unlike the snap ring setup on the Winder axle. I otherwise like this solution. Good job.

I have some conventional snap rings with holes( much easier to work with) being delivered today. I'm thinking the bearing housing recess may actually work to encapsulate it so it can't come open.

 

[Pstn head]

hibshman, IMO...I think what your trying to engineer here as a fix should work fine. The 2-stroke axle and brake calliper/rotor setup uses, I believe two locking nuts. The end of the drive shaft where the brake assembly slides on is threaded to accommodate ( what I believe) the locking nuts, (from what I can make out from the fiche) I never worked on one.
So if that's the case those locking nuts must be applying pressure against the rotor, caliper, the rear circlip, the bottom gear circlip in the chain case etc.

I've got a few ideas I'd like to throw out there...
The one thing you may want to consider is if you can retain the factory snap ring under the cup washer against the brake rotor. Just in case.
Also maybe some lock tight red or blue?
A torque setting (like you mentioned)
I'm not sure if this one is possible, but instead of a bolt, the use of a stud (similar to a manifold stud) that can be driven into the wedge with a socket and with two nuts locking nuts against the cup washer, plus a circlip or cotter pin.
Pheww... call me crazy... but this axle setup along with some other issues are driveing me crazy . Lol
I'm no engineer but I'd definitely be willing to try whatever you come up with.