Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[hibshman25]

Why can't we put two drive shaft wedgey things in our driveshaft for both bearings? Has anyone tried it yet?

Chaincase side has the plug with magnets to provide signal to the speed sensor. That bearing sits farther in from end anyway so you would have to recess the lock inside farther. There is a large diameter shoulder that bearing seats against so not sure you would be able to expand shaft with that heavy shoulder.

Have there even been worn shafts on the chaincase side? I would think with the torque being applied to that side that it keeps pressure on the race.

 

[snoprof6]

Chaincase side has the plug with magnets to provide signal to the speed sensor. That bearing sits farther in from end anyway so you would have to recess the lock inside farther. There is a large diameter shoulder that bearing seats against so not sure you would be able to expand shaft with that heavy shoulder.

Have there even been worn shafts on the chaincase side? I would think with the torque being applied to that side that it keeps pressure on the race.

Agree'd, I believe with forces from the chain as well as forces from track tension, this is the reason we don't see many worn shafts on the chaincase side.

 

[Turboflash]

Yes, there are posts on TY with sleds where the track shaft has also spun in chain case side bearing. I'm one of them!

 

[Hammer70]

I could really use some help:

I ordered a new NACHI bearing. With the new bearing, and my worn shaft....the difference will be .55mm.

With the BoP expander and green bearing compound.....will I be ok?

I have a warranty....but with shafts back ordered, I’m afraid I’ll be waiting into Jan.

Opinions, thoughts?

Q. Arrius

I ordered yesterday in today at dealer

 

[Hammer70]

Yes, there are posts on TY with sleds where the track shaft has also spun in chain case side bearing. I'm one of them!

X2

 

[Spicoli]

Can the wedge be installed with everything in place on the sled?

 

[Fast]

Can the wedge be installed with everything in place on the sled?

you have to remove 4 screws and the metal foot well pieces pretty simple

 

[Spicoli]

Ok great, thanks for the info.

 

[FrozenTows4]

Can the wedge be installed with everything in place on the sled?

No. For a "guess the torque" installation the rotor guard needs to be removed at bare minimum.
I see issues, on the horizon, with those guessing the torque to the heavy side.
Shaft over expands, which expands the inner bearing race, which de-creases inner to outer race clearance, which applies pressure to the ball bearings, which will lead to early bearing failure.
Am I right?

Correct installation is when bearing is a snug fit on the shaft. Still can slide it off with a bit of force by hand.
If you want it locked to the shaft, then 1-2ftlbs should do it. But without over expanding.

This can not be done with the track at full tension. The 3 bolts, that hold the caliper/bearing housing needs to be removed. With track at full tension, this will cock the shaft applying tremendous strain on the chain case.
More problems on the horizon.

The way I see it, the most correct answer is remove the skid, tip sled on side, remove caliper/bearing housing bolts from inside tunnel, inspect shaft to see how much it has spun, insert wedge, tighten so wedge does not spin, tap it in flush with washer, and torque until bearing will not slide on the shaft. No more.

Finish off by greasing that bearing since you're down there.

 

[34pontiac]

No. For a "guess the torque" installation the rotor guard needs to be removed at bare minimum.
I see issues, on the horizon, with those guessing the torque to the heavy side.
Shaft over expands, which expands the inner bearing race, which de-creases inner to outer race clearance, which applies pressure to the ball bearings, which will lead to early bearing failure.
Am I right?

Correct installation is when bearing is a snug fit on the shaft. Still can slide it off with a bit of force by hand.
If you want it locked to the shaft, then 1-2ftlbs should do it. But without over expanding.

This can not be done with the track at full tension. The 3 bolts, that hold the caliper/bearing housing needs to be removed. With track at full tension, this will cock the shaft applying tremendous strain on the chain case.
More problems on the horizon.

The way I see it, the most correct answer is remove the skid, tip sled on side, remove caliper/bearing housing bolts from inside tunnel, inspect shaft to see how much it has spun, insert wedge, tighten so wedge does not spin, tap it in flush with washer, and torque until bearing will not slide on the shaft. No more.

Finish off by greasing that bearing since you're down there.

Sweet. You got it alll figured out.

• 

 

[jonlafon1]

No. For a "guess the torque" installation the rotor guard needs to be removed at bare minimum.
I see issues, on the horizon, with those guessing the torque to the heavy side.
Shaft over expands, which expands the inner bearing race, which de-creases inner to outer race clearance, which applies pressure to the ball bearings, which will lead to early bearing failure.
Am I right?

Correct installation is when bearing is a snug fit on the shaft. Still can slide it off with a bit of force by hand.
If you want it locked to the shaft, then 1-2ftlbs should do it. But without over expanding.

This can not be done with the track at full tension. The 3 bolts, that hold the caliper/bearing housing needs to be removed. With track at full tension, this will cock the shaft applying tremendous strain on the chain case.
More problems on the horizon.

The way I see it, the most correct answer is remove the skid, tip sled on side, remove caliper/bearing housing bolts from inside tunnel, inspect shaft to see how much it has spun, insert wedge, tighten so wedge does not spin, tap it in flush with washer, and torque until bearing will not slide on the shaft. No more.

Finish off by greasing that bearing since you're down there.

Your correct as to the CORRECT installation IMO. I can’t see the inner race expanding and adding pressure though. At least not enough to effect that bearing that much. You should add that you can take the OEM stock bearing and throw it out also. A few bucks more for a way better bearing.
We will find out after this season on this fix. I really don’t see it mattering that much weather it’s in all the way and a 5-10 pound diff in torque. Rotor has play call it good. Obviously if it’s installed all the way then slightly less torque. But a lot of factors here. Like new shaft old a shaft and or how worn down the old shaft is. Either way it’s a great fix that needs some miles to see where the torque needs to be.

 

[no1b4me]

Your correct as to the CORRECT installation IMO. I can’t see the inner race expanding and adding pressure though. At least not enough to effect that bearing that much. You should add that you can take the OEM stock bearing and throw it out also. A few bucks more for a way better bearing.
We will find out after this season on this fix. I really don’t see it mattering that much weather it’s in all the way and a 5-10 pound diff in torque. Rotor has play call it good. Obviously if it’s installed all the way then slightly less torque. But a lot of factors here. Like new shaft old a shaft and or how worn down the old shaft is. Either way it’s a great fix that needs some miles to see where the torque needs to be.

My update.....
Using a brand new sled with 0 miles as reference, I installed the "wedge" as first described with the flats completely exposed a few weeks ago and torqued to 40 lbs..... That locked up any wiggle play the new rotor had... Now stepping forward to today, I removed the "wedge" and the rotor wiggle play returned as original prior to the "wedge" installation , then I reinstalled the "wedge" right upto the friction washer into the drive shaft and loaded it to 32 lbs, the same amount of rotor wiggle play was maintained. Based on the revised installation instructions I feel very confident this will address the brake pulsation risk, though on my application we are only talking a few thousandths of wiggle play.
Hope this information helps anyone with a new sled installation.
Cheers,
Rob

 

[jonlafon1]

My update.....
Using a brand new sled with 0 miles as reference, I installed the "wedge" as first described with the flats completely exposed a few weeks ago and torqued to 40 lbs..... That locked up any wiggle play the new rotor had... Now stepping forward to today, I removed the "wedge" and the rotor wiggle play returned as original prior to the "wedge" installation , then I reinstalled the "wedge" right upto the friction washer into the drive shaft and loaded it to 32 lbs, the same amount of rotor wiggle play was maintained. Based on the revised installation instructions I feel very confident this will address the brake pulsation risk, though on my application we are only talking a few thousandths of wiggle play.
Hope this information helps anyone with a new sled installation.
Cheers,
Rob

Thanks for info. Everyone that installs should report back. This will help Travis and others on TY.

 

[Turboflash]

I installed 2 BOP savers on 2 '17 TCats with about 3500 miles on each of them. First installed with flats completely exposed (per original install instructions) and torqued to 35 ft. lbs. On one sled, the rotor was still loose on spline but the other it tightened it up some. Easy fix was to loosen that one and tap the BOP saver further into shaft. Upon re-torque, everything was fine. Rotor once again has play it needs.
Thanks Travis!

 

[Sly99]

Installed it yesterday on a new bearing and new shaft. Torqued to 33 ft. Lbs. Installed it all the way to the washer and rotor still have play.